Windshield Repair Forum

If your resin bottle leaks you could end up with resin on your skin in a sensitive area. I don't recommend that practice.

shermfiddle wrote:It's also a good idea to warm up your injector with a lighter, blow tourch or hairdryer. Keep your resin warm. I put a container of resin in my pocket to keep it warm while working on the glass. "I love this business"

does this help you dryout your breaks??!! If so please explain.

When working under very cold and wet conditions, I've always asked the customer to turn on their heater to about medium heat and the dash defroster to blow on medium to high. During the time I prep the windshield for the repair, including clearing the pit area, it starts to warm up to just the right temperature. I continue to feel the windshield around the break area with my hand to make sure it doesn't get too warm, but I give it plenty of time to warm up slowly when it is extremely cold out. I don't have to worry about it cracking out during the repair process, or future crack outs from moisture that was not completely removed from inside the break. I can usually tell when the time is right for proceeding with the repair. Also, during vacuum and pressure cycles, I apply 2-3-seconds of heat with the torch now and then, but not too much. Just using common sense and patience seems to work for me.

Oh yes, just one more thing. I always keep my injector, resins, etc. in the front of my vehicle with me where it's warm under the heater while I'm driving from place to place. It works great.

I had two WSR on Friday: I paid a detailer $5 to use his inside bay. The temp was about 70 in the bay and below 30 outside:
I used a blow dryer 1800 watts electric to warm the glass to about 67 -71 degrees in an area about 10 inches wide. I got the combination star break to fill except for one small line on each side: I called Korey twice and used a lighter under the glass for a few seconds and it filled. I wasn't sure wheather to use a flame on it. I think The drier may have worked. The owner could not find his break even after pointing to several spots on his cadillac. The second was a crack with a impact point near the center of it. I used the same method of heating as the first. I did error by putting pit resin along the entire crack instead of just the impact pt. Bruce corrected me. This was the second crack I've repaired outside of my office practice WS: It turned out well. I didn't charge the guy but he gave me $10 to cover my chemicals and bay fee, then he paid me to do his HLR while I had his vehicle inside and two referals. I need to find a 12 v Hair dryer for those times that I dont have access to a electrical source. I have the website Sunshine wr , t4K, mentioned. ? for Chad ! Did you ever get one and how is it working for you: Candyman

Couple of things spring to mind here, did you dry out the repair or just assumed it was dry because you warmed the glass up. When you used heat, how long did you allow the glass to cool for before curing.

In tests we have found that it can take a long long time for a break to cool to the ambient temperature after heating, which is why I always use the heat sink.

Try this some of you with practise glasses, first create a star break and warm it till the legs disappear, then allow to cool whilst timing it, you may be suprised at how long those legs take to open back up again. Another one warm the glass like the previous poster did and then use the heat sink on the damaged area, watch and see how nicely those legs open up.

I am not saying it is wrong to use heat to help resin flow, however it is extremely important to recognize that which is filled with resin and that which has shut up with heat.

screenman wrote: it is extremely important to recognize that which is filled with resin and that which has shut up with heat.

No truer words have ever been spoken !!

Candyman,

Hows things going for you!

I see you asked me a question. I think your asking if I ever got myself a Hair Dryer, If so Yes! I did. It's something I will not leave the office without! It stays in my van actually. I even modified it to accomodate my process by installing (3) suction cups to it. Now to think about it I am slack as I was supposed to have informed Brent and all you guys of when I did that.

Sorry! Shame on me!

Back on point!

Have a great 1!

I'm curious as to why no one has mentioned creating a vacuum. It's in the Auto Glass Repair Technician Reference Manual that I used to study for my test backin '99. According to this manual, the vapor point of water is lower while under a vaccuum. This way you shouldn't have to get it too hot. I don't use my injector to do this though as it says. I use a plastic syringe (w/o the needle) with a suction cup attached to it. I drill holes in the plunger of the needle big enough to put a finishing nail through. I heat the break with a torch in a circular motion around it out to about 5-6 inches. Next, I apply the needle/suction cup by centering the suction cup over the impact point, pull the plunger on the needle, and then insert the nail to hold it. Let it set for a few minutes and the check moisture and if needed, repeat the steps as needed. This is a process I learned from the person who taught me how to repair windshields. Although I didn't know why it worked until I read this in the manual while studying for my test.

I usually don't need to cool it off much afterwards because it's usually cool enough this time of year. If I do need to cool it off, I use the same thing I use in the summer--a fan operated by 2 AA batteries that you can buy at Walmart for under $2.00. I did see a couple of people mention using a heat sink. I've heard of these before, but didn't know where to get one. Any suggestions??

wdoctor wrote:I'm curious as to why no one has mentioned creating a vacuum. It's in the Auto Glass Repair Technician Reference Manual that I used to study for my test backin '99. According to this manual, the vapor point of water is lower while under a vaccuum. This way you shouldn't have to get it too hot. I don't use my injector to do this though as it says. I use a plastic syringe (w/o the needle) with a suction cup attached to it. I drill holes in the plunger of the needle big enough to put a finishing nail through. I heat the break with a torch in a circular motion around it out to about 5-6 inches. Next, I apply the needle/suction cup by centering the suction cup over the impact point, pull the plunger on the needle, and then insert the nail to hold it. Let it set for a few minutes and the check moisture and if needed, repeat the steps as needed. This is a process I learned from the person who taught me how to repair windshields. Although I didn't know why it worked until I read this in the manual while studying for my test.

I usually don't need to cool it off much afterwards because it's usually cool enough this time of year. If I do need to cool it off, I use the same thing I use in the summer--a fan operated by 2 AA batteries that you can buy at Walmart for under $2.00. I did see a couple of people mention using a heat sink. I've heard of these before, but didn't know where to get one. Any suggestions??

Delta Kits sells heat sinks and they work very nicely. Check their website!