torch vs moisture evap. tool

[glassdoctor]

Ha, sometimes here, we have a huge torch in the sky that does the dry out for us.

I didn't have much for instruction when I started 20 years ago. Just a generic manual with a few basic steps to follow, and a couple guys I knew in the biz that I could bug if needed. The trick I was taught was to use a bic lighter on the inside. It's nearly impossible to use a regular lighter on the outside without burning yourself or looking like an idiot. I recall having a couple crack out from using that method back in the day. I've also broke a w/s just by clearing off ice and snow, starting the car, and running the defrost. Also broke a w/s once by hair dryer.

[Cryatal_Image]

Someone mentioned the whole preiodic table laws of physics. Wouldnt it make since to try drying from the inside first? You have 2 layers of windshield. Heat the spot inside, the outside layer of glass would heat alittle wider and cool quiker wouldnt it? Heat would center itself and the moisture and rise up and out. Not sure about this one, just a tought

[glassdoctor]

No need to over think it quite that much lol... heat directly on the break is simple and it works. No matter what heat source you use, I recommend doing it on the outside, directly on a small area at the break.

In theory, the infrared heat of the cig lighter tools is a good idea, to penetrate the glass and get to the moisture. IMO, it still gets everything hot, pretty much the same as a properly used micro torch.

The answer to which is the better option, depends on the person holding the tools, imo.

[SeeClearly]

We have used both methods for drying out damages, but we find that a moisture evaporator works best in most of our applications. We use this evaporator on the outside of the windshield over the damage. It has the tendency of drying out the open space and glass prior to heating the laminate to a higher temperature. Heating from the inside, the heat must travel through the laminate to the other side which takes more heat to effectively dry the actual damage. The heat required to properly dry the damage would not be good for the laminate. I would not advise it. In the case of a torch, be very careful of a torch since the heat can be concentrated, and heating the area too quickly can cause serious damage.

[DryStar]

We have used both methods for drying out damages, but we find that a moisture evaporator works best in most of our applications. We use this evaporator on the outside of the windshield over the damage. It has the tendency of drying out the open space and glass prior to heating the laminate to a higher temperature. Heating from the inside, the heat must travel through the laminate to the other side which takes more heat to effectively dry the actual damage. The heat required to properly dry the damage would not be good for the laminate. I would not advise it. In the case of a torch, be very careful of a torch since the heat can be concentrated, and heating the area too quickly can cause serious damage.

There has been so much posted on this issue from Brent and others. I would suggest you search some earlier archives on this forum to get updated with.

I personally, don't like using a mini torch because it's difficult to control the temperature applied. I'll use a butane heat pen often in spring and summer but seldom during cold winter months. (only the drystar) Heating the windshield from the inside to
evaporate moisture is so old school. Not a preferred or suggested technique used today.

[DryStar]

Sorry SeeClearly,

I quoted you accidentally....I agree with what you said!

[screenman]

Drystar, would you not say that the micro torch is infinitely adjustable.

[Glasseye]

The objective of applying heat to the glass is to create just enough heat to evaporate moisture from the damage. The control and experience in applying that source of heat is the fundamental key to achieving a consistent successful outcome. So you need to get to know the impact your heat source has on the glass. Work on a scrap screen, create damage, apply heat, watch what happens when you leave it too long, to the glass and to the interlayer. Then create more damage, inspect it closely, then douse it with water and inspect again, learn to identify when moisture is present. Then practice removing that moisture with your heat source, when you happy with it, let it cool and douse it again and repeat the prodecure until you begin to get the feel. After this, you will be well on your way to learning control. But the experience part of it will take time, why, because you then have to learn to deal with the variables, glass temperature, air temperature, damage types and their reaction to heat, stressed glass, position of damage on glass, etc.. Gaining this control and experience is what will make you a good professional glass repairer, but one thing I can guarantee you is that you will never stop learning.

[DryStar]

Drystar, would you not say that the micro torch is infinitely adjustable.

I can only say that the micro torch works for some but doesn't work for others. I guess if you practiced with it enough it might work, I just never cared for it.

[jhickman1]

I dont want this post sound critical, I am just curious about understanding this further.
As I said before, I was trained to heat from the inside but I am open minded to other ideas as long as they make sense to me. So here is my question... If you arent trying to dry the chip, you are simply trying to warm it up on a cold day, how do you do it once the bridge is placed? I understand that you can do it first before the bridge is in place but the glass can cool off fairly fast if its cold outside. Someone mentioned overheating the laminate if you are doing it from the inside, but if I am just trying to get it to 60 or 70 degrees then surely the laminate can take that as it gets over 100 degrees round here in the summer, and thats just air temp and not a surface temp. If someone can clarify, I would appreciate it.