Stopping Cracks...

[screenman]

14u2ponder. No I do not mean laminate that is what the 3 or more pieces stuck together make. I mean PVB as anybody who knows anything at all about our trade would know stands for Polyvinyl butyral, or to some less educated the plastic bit between the two layers of glass.

I see you answered my question with a question, not a politician by any chance are you?

How deep do I drill when needing to pop using the slide hammer, just enough that is how far.

[Nomad]

Although there may be differences in methods and opinions on the way to doing certain repairs, most of us on this forum have not personally attacked or attempted to embarrass or humiliate another poster that we disagree with. Being personally barked at like a drill Sargent would do is not my idea of a pleasant or civil exchange. I believe that we have given 14u2ponder enough rope that he has hung himself, that is, revealed his true character. Some of his statements attempting to put down other posters are:

Ludicrous line of bull, butt into a conversation with a snide remark, PVB, what's that? Oh you mean the fancy way of saying laminate., It's laughable the things this guy says. Nobody apparently but him understands TRULY how to repair a windshield., I bet he'll claim he's never cracked a windshield before either or daisied a bullseye. Screenman has abilities we peons don't possess., I doubt you drill far enough to ever worry about broken bits., You wanna know why people don't drill to the laminate, it is because they are scared to drill period., I think it's laughable that some people on the board try to scientifically explain why it is not necessary to drill to the laminate and then pass their findings off as being more skilled than the guy that drills the proper depth.[/u]

People come to this board to learn, so if you know it all why are you here? Screenman has made more contributions to this board and enlightened and informed them without using uncivil attacks on them for many years. Attacking and disrespecting someone who is a very respected member of the windshield repair community was a very bad error on your part.

As for the rest of us, if this guy doesn't change his ways, I suggest we ignore his posts.

[sunshine wr]

dnkies original question

Hey Guys,

I wanted to ask you all what you do to effectively stop a crack that has started running. I have been drilling a hole in front of the end of the crack and popping a bullseye then filling , but lately my luck has turned bad with this method. The past three times I have tried this method, the crack jumped past my bullseye when I "popped" the bullseye. I'm using a bur bit and drilling deep into the first layer then I use a delta slide hammer to pop the bullseye...but the crack jumps past the bullseye. What the heck am I doing wrong? I've been successful at this method many many times but it seems either my luck has ran out or I'm doing something wrong. By the way, I typed this post on my phone att my location so I apologize for any grammar or spelling errors.

Thanks

Dan

I don't think anyone including the moderator has posted answers relevant to the original post JMO !

[Nomad]

On an unstable crack that has jumped past the bullseye, I will set my injector up on the bullseye and fill the crack as I normally would. Then cure the resin really well, let it set up longer than normal, maybe twice as long to make doubly sure it is very well cured. Then, drill and tap off the end of the now filled crack which should be very stable at this point. Take the slide hammer and tap between the end of the crack and the tapped bullseye and try to walk the crack into the bullseye and the hole. You may have to tap multiple times, and don't tap too hard. Make sure you have drilled as close as you can figure out where the crack will go if it would continue to crack. Very rarely I will drill one stop hole and pop, then drill one on either side a little closer to the end of the crack, like a little arrow head, and pop those too. I would do this only if I was unsure of where the crack might go and I wanted to cover all the variations that I could.

The injector tip will usually cover the little arrowhead holes so I can inject all at once. Inject and if there is a little tip of the original crack that didn't fill it will backfill from your new bullseye.

You may not be doing anything wrong, just statistics kind of caught up with you. You might try drilling a little deeper so you don't have to tap as hard to create the bullseye in the first place. You shouldn't have to tap too hard, if you tap hard enough, most any crack will run.

Sorry we got off subject here, I hope this was helpful.

[dnkies]

THANK YOU Nomad!!! Sounds like a great approach!

[GlassStarz]

For those that have been here awhile we have the same individual show up every so often under a new name. He becomes a complete pain and is banned. Im pretty sure this guy is a reincarnation of the Kansas twit.
For those that know what the drill is fo good those that dont it gets you access to the chip. The proper way to use it is you drill just enough to get to the damage and seldom if ever get to the Laminate. Its a pretty poor tech who hits it all the time he probably should go back to that corner with his squeegee where skill isnt important. And sure you can try to stretch the bits life and run the chance of breaking one but since the things cost about a buck why would you