Heat & Moisture Removal

[Mr. Chips]

Oh yeah, I also wanted to know if anyone is using a butane torch as a moisture evaporator. Delta Kits offers a 12v coil unit, but it seems that carefully used, a torch could accomplish the same thing.

Thanks again.
C. Holton

[glassdoctor]

Butane mini torch works fine, or a propane plumbers torch if you are VERY careful...

[Coitster]

Personaly I used to use a butane torch but I no longer do. I don't use any lighters anymore or add any heat to a windshield repair. I have found that since I stopped useing them my repairs have turned out better. When you heat a windshield up sometimes it closes the crack making it look like it is fixed when it really isn't. So I recommend that you spend just a few extra minutes doing a repair and no use a lighter.
David
Coitster

[glassdoctor]

a butane torch as a moisture evaporator.

This isn't for "helping" the repair process, but for drying the chip prior to the repair process.

I also say never use heat to aid the repair itself... and I have never done so myself. I'm glad nobody taught me that one...

[Mr. Chips]

Coitster, Glass Doc,
Thanks for the insight fellers. I'm not entirely sure Delta would support your "no heat" position. I attended the San Antonio training and the boys over at Delta suggest that heat is desireable provided it is used cautiously (don't overheat) and consistently.

As for the question regarding a butane torch, I was merely curious about it's efficacy as a moisture evaporator in preparation for the repair, not to facilitate the repair itself.

Thanks again guys.
C. Holton

[Delta Kits]

I don't use any lighters anymore or add any heat to a windshield repair.

May work for you, as long as you only repair windshields at 70 degrees or warmer. If you're doing repairs when it's colder than 70, techs need to heat the windshield.

You don't need to go crazy, just warm the glass to the point where it's warm to the touch. You can do this with a moisture evaporator, lighter, torch, or defrosters.

When you heat a windshield up sometimes it closes the crack making it look like it is fixed when it really isn't.

This makes me think we're talking of two different things. This only happens at 100+ degrees. If you've got a windshield that's 50 degrees, and you heat it to 70, this does not happen.

So, our position is heat when necessary. If you're only adding small amounts of heat, the additional risk incurred is negligible. If you're doing like Coitster used to do and heating it past 100 when warming, I definitely agree not to do that.

[maxryde]

Jeff,Could I get you to expound on this?

So, our position is heat when necessary. If you're only adding small amounts of heat, the additional risk incurred is negligible. If you're doing like Coitster used to do and heating it past 100 when warming, I definitely agree not to do that.

I ask because I have used temps higher than that at times and have heard that extream heat will damage resin. I also wonder if that is true than what effect is heat having on resin after curing?
So ? 1. Why not warm past 100 degrees?
? 2.Effect of heat before and after cureing?
Oh, and David if you use no heat how do you dry a chip?
Thanks, Scott

[Delta Kits]

Why not warm past 100 degrees?
? 2.Effect of heat before and after cureing?

Okay, let me explain it a bit better.

When you warm past 100 (more like 110-115) you have two problems. One, it's increases the chance of a crackout. Two, it expands the glass, closing the breaks.

So, if you do happen to warm it past 100 (for moisture removal, etc.), make sure it cools down before completing repair. You can swell the whole thing shut, no big deal, as long as you do not try to finish the repair before it's cooled down and gone back to a natural state.

As far as after curing, no problem with temperature...Well, no problem that also doesn't cause problems for glass and laminate.

[repare-brise]

I use liquid moisture removal for chips that are realy wet. I use the dry out solution in the injector, use like resin , ie: start with vacumm, then inject, then vacumm again, then remove from WS. Inject chip as usual as after 20-30 secs with dry-out liquid the chip is dry. I try to use heat the least amount possible. I believe our friend from across the pond(Screenman) could write a book(or at least a pamphlet) on moisture removal. Another technique that I have seen used that is spectacular to say the least(and I don't advocate it but it works if you are brave enough to do it) is to put some acetone(4-5 drops) on the chip and light it with your torch. It always dries the chip but I would be suspicious of cracking(tech that does it swears by it, but the other method described above works well, and has less risks, but if you are of the "jack-ass" generation and like a show try it out).

[Mr. Chips]

Ahh yes, the 'ol acetone immolation method. Sounds like a risky technique, but sure would be fun to try (on a non-customer) that is. I kinda get a picture of a big, fat, juicy runout.