Windshield Repair Forum

OK I had a problem yestarday with a repair. It is the second time i have had the same problrm with a combination break. I will try to give you all the details.
I clean the winsheild around the repair with Denatured alcohol first let it all evaporate out, used the trucks airconditioning and ice (on the back side) to lower the temp of the windshield, used my infared therm. to check it. had trouble getting it below 90. When i probed a small round piece of glass came out from the center of the break. atfer getting any loose glass out i set up the injector but the resin would absolutly not flow into the breaks legs, none of them. So i drill the break and could see the leggs going into the drill area, but the resin still would not flow. There was one leg that was inch and 1/2 long so i drilled and stoped it. The resin flowed no farther that the drilled hole and mini i popped. So back to the main break i drilled it a little deeper poped a mini in it (figured it was all ready broken there but maybe the legs where pinched off and the mini would help) well that didn't help any either. So i set up the crack expander on the back of the chip and put a little presure on the break still nothing. I used the prob on the base of the legs, nothing.
All in all i spent 1 1/2 hours on this windshield trying everything i could think of and nothing worked. I finaly pit filled the crack stop and the center of the breack where i drilled and gave up. (it is a freind windshield so i will atemp to repair it again if i can figure it out.) I fill it instead of leaving it till later because I left a drill hole and mini unfilled on my truck when i had this problem think i would get back to it and it ran. So what do you guys think? some help would be great.

I should mention that the ice on the windshield was actually not ice but a diet coke from the machine.

Crackkills WSR,

Not knowing what system you are using and providing all legs are connected to the impact point and glass is with in an acceptable temp. range and it sounds like the were. My two things to consider are...

1.Did the resin slightly cure on the initial repair attempt?

2.Did you have the injector applying to much pressure on the break choking off the legs?

Just a couple quick things to think about. Hope they help. Anyone else have a suggestion.



Pay it foward,

Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com

[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]

I have noticed on numerous occassions that the legs looks as tho they have not filled but upon curing they disappear. This happened to me the other day ,after I filled and pit pit resin then cured all disappeared.

Sounds like you are tightening down the injector to tight against the windshield. (Too much head pressure). Causing pressure on the star break, actually flexing the legs so far they are closing from the top yet giving the appearance on not filling until you release the pressure. Try backing off the injector to glass pressure by one full turn. You typically only need to make a seal. That should work well for you. Let us know.

I like bennfe, do not know what type equipment you are using. If it is Delta equipment, please read "Help in Phoenix" as Rudy also had trouble getting resin to flow into the break area, until it was discovered that he had an internal injector seal problem.

I am using delta equipment, The injector was tighted to the windshield and then turned one turn, at one point i backed it out a little from there because i had read something about that here before. and i used the uv shield fro get go. I spoke with jeff today and still can't figure out what happened. I guess i will have to keep practicing. Thanks for the suggestions.

Crackkills WSR,

DELTA KITS recommends that you bring the injector seal to a no load seat and then give it one full rotation for a good seal. Then use the leveling screws for final adjustments. Now that we know you are using DELTA KITS, it might be in the pressure exerted from over tightening or over leveling the bridge with the leveling screws.

Also, I have found you don't always need to give the injector the extra full rotation for a good seal. If you are manually applying pressure to the plunger to speed the repair process then I would say give it the full rotation. If you are letting the injector work as advertised you could get away with seating the injector in a no load condition and use just the leveling screws just like a vertical repair. You will avoid mushrooming the seals out and extend the life of your injector seals.

And yes I agree, never stop practicing.

Pay it foward,

Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com

[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]

This may be a stupid question. Can you feel an increase in pressure as you are turning down on the injector?

Mafsu, I use GlasWeld injectors and have used GlassTechnology and U.B. injectors. And, No.. You cannot tell merely by feel that the injector is too tight against the glass. With time and practice you develop a feel for it. But using your sense of sight as well as touch, you will learn that correct pressure needed. For sight, when placing the injector, you want to visibly see the seal touch the glass and not tighten so tight that the seal almost disappears. When the seal touches the glass, go maybe 1/2 turn more, release resin pressure slighty and look for seepage, if none you are ok. If it does seep slightly tighten enough to stop the seepage. You will find the breaks fill faster and easier using the right amount of head pressure. Good Luck..