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Water in Chip
Posted: March 1st, 2007, 2:48 pm
by AGSS
I know this has been covered before, but, how do you know whaen you have removed all of the water and all moisture from a break?
I did one today, I soaked the break with alcohol, then with the drystar for 15-20 seconds. I thought the glass would break it was so hot!
When trying to fill the starlines, I still noticed the light grey color

I thought maybe I could heat it from the inside and maybe evaporate some of the moisture left, no success.
What do you do from here?
Re: Water in Chip
Posted: March 1st, 2007, 5:25 pm
by sgailey
I don't think there's much you can do, AGSS--- not if the break has already been injected with resin.
Although it's embarrassing, you could tell the customer to keep an eye on the legs, and to call you if they budge any further.
Re: Water in Chip
Posted: March 3rd, 2007, 11:44 pm
by wilz
I know this has been covered before, but, how do you know whaen you have removed all of the water and all moisture from a break?
I did one today, I soaked the break with alcohol, then with the drystar for 15-20 seconds. I thought the glass would break it was so hot!
When trying to fill the starlines, I still noticed the light grey color I thought maybe I could heat it from the inside and maybe evaporate some of the moisture left, no success.
What do you do from here?
by AGSS
This is what they actually mean when you learn from experience. Don't take it to hard on yourself. In the future just ensure that the break is tried out properly and take your time.
Re: Water in Chip
Posted: March 4th, 2007, 4:59 pm
by Mike Allen
be careful when you're heating the windshield. If it gets too hot it can break or even melt the laminate.
I heat in stages and start about 4 inches from the break and work in circles. Move the heat source slowly in so that the surrounding area is heated up along with the area that you will be focusing on.
Re: Water in Chip
Posted: March 5th, 2007, 1:42 am
by screenman
Mike you do this different from us. I tend to keep the heated area as small as possible. 2 reasons, first it cools down quicker to the surrounding temperature, 2nd if a crack does run the cool area will stop it.
This is why the drystar has been working well it keeps the area contained and if it does crack out then it will onlr run about an inch at max, easy repair. When Novus first came up with the idea of drying out they used a halogen lamp, then went over to the blow torch and suggested a large area, we have tested over and over again to see which works best for us.
However as I have said before whatever works for you. Last time I did not have to dry out was last August.
Re: Water in Chip
Posted: March 6th, 2007, 2:03 am
by Mike Allen
I've done it both ways but after my experience it works really well for me that way. I think that if the immediate and surrounding area is brought up to temp slowly, there is less of a chance to shock it and scare it into cracking.