Damp in a repair

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simplyweb

Damp in a repair

Post by simplyweb »

How do you know if there is damp in a repair ,and what do you look for . I am just starting a repair business in the uk and it is always wet over here.Today I had a star break there was no way them legs would fill , could that of been damp .
screenman
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Re: Damp in a repair

Post by screenman »

Could you possibly put in a few details about yourself, what equipment you are using, where you were trained, what area you are in and any other things you can think of. With this information it makes it far easier to answer your questions and also gives us a little commitment.
Kgobin
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Re: Damp in a repair

Post by Kgobin »

simplyweb wrote:How do you know if there is damp in a repair ,and what do you look for . I am just starting a repair business in the uk and it is always wet over here.Today I had a star break there was no way them legs would fill , could that of been damp .
The best way to check for moisture is to flex the glass around the break with a scribe and if the break looks partially filled then it probably has moisture in it. A moisture evaporator will eliminate moisture trapped in most windshield repairs within 20 seconds.
Korey Gobin
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ChipperFixer

Re: Damp in a repair

Post by ChipperFixer »

What is the proper way to use a moisture evaporator?
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Re: Damp in a repair

Post by Kgobin »

The moisture evaporator supplies radiant heat from an element. Once the evaporator is hot you want to apply it over the point of impact. You do not want to leave it on the glass for more than 20 seconds because too much heat can damage the windshield. Typically, it should remove all moisture within those 20 seconds. Always make sure you follow the directions to avoid damaging the windshield.
Korey Gobin
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screenman
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Re: Damp in a repair

Post by screenman »

Lets slow down a bit here, first I would like to hear the answers to my questions, we could possibly be answering a guy who has had zero training at all. Also although the Drystar is an excelent tool a lot depnds on the style and type of damage, a 2inch starbreak will need different techniques to a1/2 bullseye.

In the UK every single repair you do at this time of year will be full of water in fact for about 99% of repairs you will need to dry out. Something only about 5% of repair guys in the UK do.

If in doubt dry it out.
ChipperFixer

Re: Damp in a repair

Post by ChipperFixer »

I didn't mean to jump the gun screenman, we do need to find out a few more details about simplyweb's problem. The moisture I'm dealing with this morning is coming from my eyes, I call it Obamatears, they keep falling into all my repairs. Maybe I'll take the day off...go dry out....in doubt dryout.
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Re: Damp in a repair

Post by GlassStarz »

For those of you without a moisture evaporator there are a couple ways to make do You can run a torch or match along the outside I dont like the match because it leaves that black soot have always been afraid it will end up in the break The other is a coil cigarette lighter from your car this is the element many companies use in thier evaporators be careful and dont put it dirrectly on the glass the other way is a heat gun run it around the area again be careful not to get it too hot
simplyweb

Re: Damp in a repair

Post by simplyweb »

Ye hello Screenman and everyone else thanks for the info .Well my main job is to fit windscreen but we also do alot of repairs .The trainning was very basic but it was 15 years ago .I live in the north west of England ,The kit we use is called esprit which I think is a bit basic . I had another Star break again today for some reason the legs wont fill properly ,I tried heat I tried flexing the ends of the legs I am also aware of that early curing because of uv levels , but today was very dull saying that I have started putting a bit of pit fill resin on the screen before I start a repair to see if it started going off , yesterday it did and the sun was not shinning . Does anyone know what the safe uv levels are for working without covering up the repair , you can buy uv monitors .Anyway I think it could be the resin esprit provides us with .I am starting my own repair only not replacment business in January I am buying the GT maxim kit .I hope this tells you a bit about me and what I am up to I feel I have met some new mates on these forums there is loads of great hints an tips ;)
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Re: Damp in a repair

Post by maxryde »

Always! Always! Protect youe repairs from UV's, wait and see methods of UV protection will eventually bite you. For example, you begin a repair and test via the method you described.
The UV index can fluxuate wildly this time of year, simply because it was acceptable 5 min ago does not it will be 5 min's from now. A good tech stays on track reguardless of the UV index. There are other factors in repair that require flexability, UV protection should not be one of them.

simplyweb wrote:Ye hello Screenman and everyone else thanks for the info .Well my main job is to fit windscreen but we also do alot of repairs .The trainning was very basic but it was 15 years ago .I live in the north west of England ,The kit we use is called esprit which I think is a bit basic . I had another Star break again today for some reason the legs wont fill properly ,I tried heat I tried flexing the ends of the legs I am also aware of that early curing because of uv levels , but today was very dull saying that I have started putting a bit of pit fill resin on the screen before I start a repair to see if it started going off , yesterday it did and the sun was not shinning . Does anyone know what the safe uv levels are for working without covering up the repair , you can buy uv monitors .Anyway I think it could be the resin esprit provides us with .I am starting my own repair only not replacment business in January I am buying the GT maxim kit .I hope this tells you a bit about me and what I am up to I feel I have met some new mates on these forums there is loads of great hints an tips ;)
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