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leaky crack

Posted: February 10th, 2009, 11:56 am
by PortMerc
I have a crack I am repairing. As I inject I can see resin seeping out each end of the crack (about 4 inches, 2 inches on each side of impact). I am assuming I should NOT use the vacuum cycle as it would suck air back into the crack. So do I just inject till all the air is gone and cure it? Thanks.

Re: leaky crack

Posted: February 10th, 2009, 1:18 pm
by Brent Deines
It depends on the system being used. With a Delta Kits system very little vacuum is needed to properly fill a break. In fact, this is one of the reasons we don't buy into the whole first stage vacuum argument, but one thing that I think will help with any system is to cover the cracks with curing film to keep the resin in the break. There could still be air in the break so if using a Delta Kits system I would recommend that you still use the vacuum cycle after the cracks are covered. The resin that has already come to the surface will help create and effective seal between the curing film and the glass. Curing tabs or strips can be used instead of film depending on your preference.

Re: leaky crack

Posted: February 10th, 2009, 6:10 pm
by PortMerc
Thanks Brent. Will try that.
I've been using the Delta b300 for about three months now. 2-15 repairs a week. So far it works great.

Re: leaky crack

Posted: February 11th, 2009, 9:35 am
by adam@gtglass
I am unfamiliar with Delta's crack repair methods, but in a different approach (whether or not you wish to try it), I'm from the school of crack repair that even with relatively short "cracks," it is better to fill and cure the "cracks" before filling and curing the impact "chip."

Instead of using an injector to try to push all the way to the ends of the crack, another possibility is to place electrical (black, or something that will not allow uv rays to pass through) tape over the "chip" and then stop the crack with a drill hole or bulls eye on each end, whichever your preference. After this, the crack can be filled with or without the injector, by injecting resin or using capillary action and a resin bottle, respectively. Finally, the "cracks" can be covered and cured.

The next step is to place a drop of pit fill on the drill "stopper holes," and cure these while repairing the original impact "chip" (that you have taken the tape cover off of) with your injector.

There will be 3 spots of shined up pit fill on the glass, but everything else should come out clear, in a comparable amount of time as filling the entire 4 inches of extra long leg cracks with an injection process..

Just another option to try if you like.