Windshield Repair Forum

Ok, so i have read some posts, and I'm still convinced that the delta seals are too tight. I have tried everything to stretch and break them in, but the injector still wont push to the bottom of the seal without pushing the seal out of the end. This is a problem because I can't get full suction when I'm trying to remove air bubbles from a chip.

Also, I have no idea what the cause is, but after my chip is finished and I drop pit resin on and place a cure tap over it, I am getting an air bubble AS it cures. Keep in mind that I am SURE there are no bubbles in the resin as i apply it. I can accually watch the air bubble slowly appear as the resin cures underneath the tap. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated.

~Mike

Mike,

The tighter the seal the better it works, and if you are pushing the seal out of the injector you are not using it properly. If you are trying to push the plunder to the bottom of the seal you are also using it improperly.

As for the air bubble that appears after you place the curing tab, I have to assume you are not getting all the air out before you are placing the tab. This also probably has to do with the fact that you are not using the injector properly.

I suggest you call us to get you back on track.

I would suggest if possible get some training, if not certainly phone Delta for serious help. I would imagine you have too many problems going on here to just discuss them on the forum.

I agree you should call Delta or get with them, they know their product best.

One idea though is that you might be putting way to much downward pressure closing up the break partially, then as you remove and let cure with no pressure it can open up. The smallest of flexing in the crack could be causing this problem. There's a fine line between to much pressure and not enough. Delta employees can teach you this.

I used to have the same problem until I realised that I was screwing the injector down too tightly. Try loosening it until it just starts to leak resin and then gently tighten it 1/4 turn or so until it doesnt leak any more. Also make sure the injector is properly leveled before you start , so you are applying an even pressure on the glass. Look in the inspection mirror to check this.

I have occasionally had an appearing bubble after curing as well. My theory about it is that there is humidity in the chip and cause a fake impression that the chip is properly filled with resin ( instead must be 5% water-95% resin), then the UV curing process cause the water to evaporate from the chip leaving this tiny 5% area empty, as an air bubble.

Do you think my theory is possible or not? I am a newbie.

I have avoided this problem by improving my prior inspection of the chip with the probe (flexing meticulously) and applying a good vacuum in order to take all the humidity out... and no more air bubbles for my repairs.

VitroFortis,

I think your theory is incorrect but first may I ask what kind of equipment you are using. In my opinion, curing lamps typically do not evaporate water and there can be a number of reasons why black is appearing. Also, black is a result of air in the damage not moisture.

Brent Deines wrote:Mike,

The tighter the seal the better it works, and if you are pushing the seal out of the injector you are not using it properly. If you are trying to push the plunder to the bottom of the seal you are also using it improperly.

As for the air bubble that appears after you place the curing tab, I have to assume you are not getting all the air out before you are placing the tab. This also probably has to do with the fact that you are not using the injector properly.

I suggest you call us to get you back on track.

Training training training ...no substitute! ....so when are you coming over to the UK to help out Graham!....and give us some training!!

Kgobin, I am using GT Spctrm. I have had no air bubbles after curing so far, but of course we are willing to hear your advice to make sure we will not have them anymore.

Thank you.

VitroFortis,
It is good to hear that you haven’t encountered any air bubbles after curing thus far. I should add that most of my advice is specific to DKI equipment, but I know that some technicians will remove the bridge as soon as the cracks appear to be completely filled, but I would recommend doing one extra vacuum and pressure cycle just to make sure that there is no air compressed at the end or edges of a crack. Often times this extra step will reveal that there was still a tiny pocket of air hiding somewhere within the damaged area. This air can be difficult if not impossible to see, but can migrate to the surface, or near the surface depending on how fast the curing occurs.