Repairing Recreational Vehicle Windshields HELP!

[abcinabq]

I have only worked on a few RV windshields in the last few months and I'm finding out that I don't know how to do the repairs so that the job looks good and clean like when I repair 3/8 windshield. The glass is so thick that I can still see too much scarring when I cure it up.
I'm using HV resin with my verticle injection adaptor. I drilled the center of the star, which was good sized, legs went out an inch or two. If I did anything wrong it was not drilling deep enough. I did not pop it with my slidehammer either. When I finished after about 30 minutes of 4 vacuum and pressure cycling, I decided to cure it under pressure and remove the injector. I had filled the cup to the top with resin before hand and when I removed it there was no resin left over like usual.
The damage looked filled but there was still too much black air left behind and the legs showed up bad.
I'm concerned that because of the thinkness of the glass, more resin was needed to fill it. I've never run up against this.
I think that explains it, what can you interject to help me on the next one?

[Chips be-gone]

for starters, I would not use the HV resin. Drop it down to MV or if it is not that warm use the LV. I do not even use the HV at all.
I would think you are using a GT system from what I was reading. I use a LR resinator QT for my Vertical repairs.

[abcinabq]

Yes I do use thier max machine system and have never used any other. I don't think using HV on a hot day, almost 80 degrees in the shade was the issue. I selected HV for it's adhesion strength and it flowed fine with the vertical adaptor. I think I made a mistake by not reloading the my injector cup again. I've never had to do that before but I could have, I think.
I was using my UV shield and the area was not cured yet when I noticed the problem. I make really good money on RV repairs but my lack of experience on them is a problem. That's why I'm asking for some insight now.
I checked out LR QT and I don't know you use such a problematic tool set like that successfully. You must really be good to use that kind of system for pro-repairs. I'm sorry but I don't think that is what I'm looking for on this post. Thanks anyway and good luck.

[Chips be-gone]

Almost any tool in the right hand can do what you want with the same results, Some just more time than the others.

You did say the legs were between 1 - 2", The HV is not recommended for legs that long because it is so thick. Read it on the site in Product / HV Resin... Even CR resin would have been a good choice on that repair being it is between the MV and HV strength.
I do not even use HV. CR is the thickest I use on all my RV's.

[VitroFortis]

abcinabq, I have been working with some buss's windshields for the last two months and I've find out they need much more resin than usual. I use to add 6-8 drops of resin depending on the size, shape and length of the rock chip (I work with GT spctrm). I have also find out that rock chips in buss's windshields become dirtier than car's windshields, and it happens very quickly, maybe because they travel too much and are always exposed to rain, dust, and a lot of bugs.

I have not had any problem filling legs, but some chips looks a little dirty inside after they are repaired. Could this be your case?

[abcinabq]

No the damage was very fresh and new. They told me that it happened just as they were getting in to town off the freeway. I think I made the mistake of using the HV instead of MV or just needed to refill my cup and pressure up again.
I guess my question is, will the damage look clean as auto windshields when I use the right auto resin. The glass was so thick that it showed too much scaring when the light hit it. Do you think that is common for glass that thick?

[screenman]

The damage looked filled but there was still too much black air left behind and the legs showed up bad!!! This is your line, the damage was not filled end of story using the Delta system with Magnobond resin I have no problems making my large RV or bus type windshiled repair look as good as any I do on cars.

Use the correct resin for the job, and do not rely on the amount of pressure and vaccum cycle alone to tell you the job is done, use your eye's, cross reference the repair all the time and never ever cure until it is full and you cannot see anymore black which we could and should call air.

[Chips be-gone]

The thickness of the windshield on a RV does not mater on the repair and use of resin. You figured it out by using a different resin and using more being it is at a vertical setup. You can still use the Maxim for Verticals, it will just take a little more resin to operate it.

Just take the time it needs to do the repair.

Are you sure the customer did not just wash the windshield before you arrived? Most RV'er like to wash there rigs as soon as they park. It is an image they are keeping with others. I have them doing that thinking they are helping me. I been doing them for 18 years and I have to tell them NOT to wash the glass before I show up and I feel I am hurting their pride.... One did not lessen to me and I had to explain to him why I said that. I did make him feel bad at that point. and the wife did the old "I told you so"

[screenman]

Chips be-gone I certainly know the feeling of the customer having just washed the vehicle, hence my saying if in doubt dry it out.

[abcinabq]

No it was still buggy. I know now I should have followed my first thought to refill and at least try to pump some more resin in. Since there was no residual when I removed the injector, I'm sure that was it.
I was concerned that it was starting to cure, even though I was using my UV shield, I had been on it for 30 minutes. I feel bad, just hope it doen't crack out on the guy. Darn it!