Windshield Repair Forum

greeting guys.


first of all,i like to thanks korey and delta kit for their excellent support thur email.

i have since get my delta kit two weeks back and have been practise it till today.

so far so good,i be able to fill all crack line without much problem.
but somehow,the last part was kinda turn off for me

after curing the break with UV light,i do peel off those excess resin with the sharp razor.

i did not know whether is it i use too much force while peeling off the resin,i always cant get any smooth surface at all.
i still can feel some kinda rough surface on the break.

pics as below



after the uv light curing


after peeling off the resin



can anyone advice me what should i do to perfect the repair

First off, you need to spend more time removing the air out of the damaged areas (black spots), If I'm having a hard time removing air after the first two cycles, I will apply heat with a lighter on the inside lite to help move the air (on vaccume cycle, for about 6 seconds,If glass to hot I spray glass cleaner on a papper towel and wipe area to cool down area, never spray directly onto glass), then when the glass is cooled I will put back on the pressure cycle and use a probe to flex the glass from the outside lite till I can get all the air out, this could take a few more cycles to get desired result. After you cure the pit filler, you should only peel off the curing tape, then use the razor straight up and down and scrape over the the cured resin till it is flush with with the windshield then apply pit polish to finish the job.
Always practice the same way you will work on a customers windshield, practice don't make perfect, PERFECT PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT.

First I would like to say you are doing just fine. I have seen real world repairs done by some techs that look worse than this. That does not mean to stop practicing! Not having hands on training, your first practice results are good in my opinion and with your continued practice and a few adjustments you will be doing above industry average repairs. As for a perfect repair, please do not confuse invisible with perfect. Invisible would be magic and a perfect repair is a repair that is structurally sound leaving the smallest blemish possible with a satisfied customer. Since you are already dealing with Korey you are in good hands with your trouble shooting so I wont add any confusion. Good luck.

PG Bullseye Repair wrote:First off, you need to spend more time removing the air out of the damaged areas (black spots), If I'm having a hard time removing air after the first two cycles, I will apply heat with a lighter on the inside lite to help move the air (on vaccume cycle, for about 6 seconds,If glass to hot I spray glass cleaner on a papper towel and wipe area to cool down area, never spray directly onto glass), then when the glass is cooled I will put back on the pressure cycle and use a probe to flex the glass from the outside lite till I can get all the air out, this could take a few more cycles to get desired result. After you cure the pit filler, you should only peel off the curing tape, then use the razor straight up and down and scrape over the the cured resin till it is flush with with the windshield then apply pit polish to finish the job.
Always practice the same way you will work on a customers windshield, practice don't make perfect, PERFECT PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT.

Hi Bullseye Repair

so now i understand,those black spots in the pics are the trapped air which i failed to removed it out before i apply the pit resin,right?
so let say for now,if i will to try it again for the second time,i will have to drill a hole in the middle and start all process again right?
i will try to do that again today and see how it go.

thank so much.

SGT wrote:First I would like to say you are doing just fine. I have seen real world repairs done by some techs that look worse than this. That does not mean to stop practicing! Not having hands on training, your first practice results are good in my opinion and with your continued practice and a few adjustments you will be doing above industry average repairs. As for a perfect repair, please do not confuse invisible with perfect. Invisible would be magic and a perfect repair is a repair that is structurally sound leaving the smallest blemish possible with a satisfied customer. Since you are already dealing with Korey you are in good hands with your trouble shooting so I wont add any confusion. Good luck.

Hi SGT

you are right,i do not have any hands on training at all.
i learn it all from the dvd and the information video that delta kit have over the site.

of course,i wont dare to dream of having those perfect repair that you experts have done so far,but at least must be reasonable acceptable for me and well so far those pics as shown was totally unacceptable at all,i just cant get any smooth surface after curing the resin and after i scrub off the excess resin at all,maybe it because of the air still being trapped inside or what.i still can feel a very rough surface on the windscreen as shown in the 1st pics.

for now,i will keep on practice till i get the smooth surface then.

please do guide me should i face any issue again.

one thing for sure is,i think i might have used up all resin that come with the kit even before i start on my first customer then

First can I ask if that was an old damage in a windshield, or a new one you just put in.

Secondly there is no need to drill a damage like that one at all, it has a wide open entry point.

Best of luck and keep practicing, however I would suggest you start off by making some of your repairs very wet once you get past basics, as this will make them more real life. I am assuming you have rain or moisture of some kind over there.over there.

Just keep practicing, and if you find yourself getting frustrated or angry, take a break and come back to it and try again.

As for when you're finished with the repair, and you apply the pit resin and a piece of mylar, you begin the curing process, leave the UV light over the damage for 5 minutes if you need to, always remember, this is not a race, you're not trying to do a repair in record time.

Also, once I remove the mylar tape/square, I use a razor and do a sweep scraping motion over the damage until all of the pit resin is removed from the surface and you have a nice flat, non rough surface. THen you just apply a little dab of your pit polish and rub this until your blemish shines up a bit....

I know techs that don't do a scraping motion, they just put the razor directly on the glass right before the pit resin and slide the razor between the glass and the resin and remove it all one swipe, but most of the time you're pulling the resin out of the pit by using this method.......

Good luck to you and I hope this info is helpful

ATX

Possibly you are not keeping the razor blade at a 90 degree angle to the glass. Or there may be some wax or rain x on the glass that will not let the resin stick around the chip. This will sometimes cause the whole cured pit fill to lift off the glass taking the resin out of the pit. This will leave a rough surface. Use some 0000 (I think this is what Brent uses???)steel wool, or even some pit polish to buff away the treatment on the windshield just around the chip.

You don't cut the cured resin off the glass, you "plane" it down by taking a thin layer off each time you pass the blade across the chip. As you get closer to finishing the scraping process, you can make less aggressive passes, using less pressure on the blade. Especially if it is a large pit. At least this is what I do.

Greeting guys

i m back....with more questions

well,past few days,i been doing practise on the windscreen.
sometime i do get smooth surface but most of the time,i still get those rough surface after the curing.
(still trying to counter this issue)


all in all,the below pics is the most acceptable result seem to me.


well,i do get smooth surface after the curing.
i did try out heating the windscreen as suggested by some bros here.
i do check and check before i cure it,but somehow i dont know how come there's still some air trap inside and of cos unexpected leg sudden appear,i swear i didnt see this leg appear at all when i start to cure it.

well to me,it just so weird,did you guys got exp this before?

p/s - by the way,when we heat the windscreen,it is we heat the inside or the outside of the windscreen?

Whilst you are inside in a nice warm environment I would say heat is not required on those sort of breaks. Do not forget that heat causes the glass to expand and shuts the damage up, only for it to open once the expansion has subsided.

It would have been nice if you had answered my question from a few posts earlier.