Windshield Repair Forum

I have up until about 3 weeks ago been having incredible results fixing long cracks . They have not always been INVISIVLE but they were consistent and look much like a Hair on the windshield . Now in the last three weeks no matter what I do or how good the resin seems to be flowing once the curing starts I have Shiny spots in it . I have tried starting from both ends . the end of crack and the beginning . same thing happens . I have done with crack expanders and with out . It has really gotten frustrating . It seems that toward the end of a crack it happens more often . I just do not know what to try next . I know this is vague but is anyone else having the same problem?Any suggestions?

i am just a beginner but I would guess that since the temps have startedto rise lately(maybe not where you are at) that it has somethign to do with the expansion of the glass do to heat.

Just a guess and Im sure soemone that knows better will post what they think.

There is a heck of a lot of flex in a windshield that has a long crack, so air sneaking in behind the advancing resin is easily introduced when the glass flexes from leaning on the car, or the wind blowing, or what ever. There could also be contaminates in the crack that seem to almost "repel" resin. There are all kinds of contamination like moisture, dust, dirt, pollen, oil, sap, window-cleaner, and I wouldn't be surprised if there is even some jet fuel - you know, from the contrails

Do you keep the top surface of the glass sealed off with resin and curing film/tape as the resin advances?

Maybe the cracks you have experienced lately are older than the ones that you were able to repair successfully??

Maybe the recent repairs you did were on an aftermarket windshield where the glass could be thinner and more prone to flex than an OEM windshield.

What I have been doing is telling the customer that I can stop the crack from spreading, and depending on how much contamination there may be will determine how good the overall crack repair will look, but I will stop the crack from spreading any further - guaranteed. (most customer's are just concerened about it spreading, so stopping it will satisfy their concern). That way, if there is contamination issues, and the crack repair just doesn't look that great, at least I have done exactly what I explained to the customer, and that is I stopped the crack from spreading. But if the crack is clean and the repair makes it nearly invisible (sometimes totally invisible), then I have well exceeded their expectations and I am elevated to "god-like" status

thanks Sneck. I have Not thought about the aftermarket glass. I do not usually cover the crack as I am filling although I do stop every 4 inches or so and cover it . as far a leaning on the glas yes I am guilty of that . I try to keep it to a minimum but it does happen . I also sell the fact that I can Stop the crack and I tell people that if the crack is not to old it usually looks like a hair on the glass. I have just had quiet a few latley that I seem to fight spots in the crack tha shined . after so much success with longer crack it is very frustrating knowing how well most of them turn out . thanks for you input and reply .

Tracy,

I'm sure you can use the search engine here and will find an overwhelming amount of convo on this subject! However, I feel like you may be using different pressure types. I too have experianced this and all of the chime in's are correct. Completed Quality Stone Chips, Cracks ect. always will leave some evident trace as light shines through at certain angles. i'm almost positive your doing everything right. Without actually being there my best suggestion is to watch how much pressure is being applied to the area of the void.

Too much pressure could close off certain parts of the leg(s) leading into them not filling. I use the Delta system and always do two full turns on the injector once I make contact with the glass and 2 full turns on the rear shoes. If there is any trace of resin seeping from the seal I typically will give it a half turn to stop.

I have a crack expander and will say while it is a great tool to have and use, you will find you may never use it as much as you intended when you purchased it.

Retrack your steps you took on your first few that you were so satisfied with and just repeat on all of you cracks ect, from here on out. Again I think your doing a fine job and encourage you to hang in there! This isn't rocket science but it is an ART! You definately wouldn't set a 3 month old baby on a bicycle and expect it to peddle and balance itself, this works the same way! Baby steps! to perfection!!!!


JMHO!

This may not be what happened but Im thinking if you have been having great results then things changed it could be
I find with time you get into habits start cutting corners and rushing things when results start to change go back to basics and do all steps and take extra time somewhere along the way you should find what happened

Time2Shine wrote: Too much pressure could close off certain parts of the leg(s) leading into them not filling. I use the Delta system and always do two full turns on the injector once I make contact with the glass and 2 full turns on the rear shoes. If there is any trace of resin seeping from the seal I typically will give it a half turn to stop.
JMHO!

In the DeltaKits training we are instructed to do two full turns on the injector after making contact and four full turns on the shoes. So you're saying that on cracks it is better to start out with only two full turns and then increase if needed?

Delta Kits recommends and trains technicians to get uniform thickness around the end-seal. In most cases, that would to be to give the injector barrel one half turn after it touches the glass and giving the leveling screws four half turns after touching the glass.