Windshield Repair Forum

I have seen this discussed before and thought I would post my technique as I have never liked the idea of filling the pit with resin,curing,and drilling because there is the possibility of blocking the path to some of the damage and I would assume it still leaves you with a visible drill hole ? possibility of a bubble.
Also in my experience large pit adapters do not work well, (they create to large of an airspace and use to much resin).

After experimenting with different kinds of tape to seal the chip I couldn't find anything that would hold up to the injector/resin pressure and finally I thought of a simple solution that works.

Using a mylar square (I didn't get mine from Delta but they are thicker and snap back if you bend them,Delta probably has the same thing),put a drop or two of pit resin on the square and
spread it out in a thin even layer,put it over the chip and cure (doesn't take long..30's or so should do it).
Drill or a hole through the square over the pit (not into the glass) and fill as usual.
Before curing remove the square to let the thin resin run out,fill with pit resin and cure as usual.

In theory a thicker square of UV friendly plastic,glass(something that doesn't bend) would work best because any bend or crease in the mylar could cause an air space
and you would lose the resin pressure.

I used to fear the "large pit" but not any more. : )

What you are looking to achieve is called "Capping a Pit". The procedures for this include:

1. Clean Pit.
2. Apply Pit Resin and Curing tab over large pit.
3. Cure for 5 Minutes.
4. Scrape with razor blade till level with the glass.
5. Drill hole in middle of large pit thru the pit resin.
6. Attach bridge/injector and repair as if it was a normal size pit going through all the steps normally taken for a quality repair.

the only difference I see between post #1 (ricersux) and post #2 (chipfix) is:
1. chipfix uses the mylar to make a thin resin cap to create a bubble inside, cures, then drills through the mylar and cap, removes mylar and inject resin inside the crater

2. ricersux "fills" the entire crater with resin then drills and fills as usual.

Question for chipfix: Is the thin resin cap strong enough to withstand the pressure of the bridge and injector without collapsing in the airspace below?

A newbie always asks questions...

-Robert

Robert, I hope all is well and that you are having a good weekend. We will cover this process during our training class, but below is a video detailing the process.

I think that the video covers it, and once you do this several times it will just become second nature. No matter what way a tech does this, the video just showed you the easiest way to take care of a large pit. I have a adapters for my bridges, but I have used them just a few times over the years, because it's just easier to cap the pit and move on.

Good video delta, short and 2 the point!

I have a previous Failed Attempt to fill a large pit on my practice windshield. I was hoping to only apply the pit resin, cure, scrape and buff was enough to fill and repair the pit.

I just completed the repair of the same large pit with the advice posted above by: filling the pit, cure and then drill...... The results turned out 100% better than my previous attempts.

a newbie learned something new today
-Robert