Windshield Repair Forum

Sometimes when, I have to drill it skips a makes a scratch (sometimes). It is so fustrating, but there's nothing I can do, I'm still new to this and learning. Does anyone know an effective way to remove, or hide these types of scratches. Secondly other then the basic use both hands and becareful is there any advise on how to prevent them in the first palce. I do set the expectation that this may happend to customers. Thanks in advance for all your great answers!

To stop the drill skipping across the glass when you start to drill. Hold the drill firmly with both hands and at angle of 45 degrees to the glass surface. Then use the drill burr to dimple the glass at the point you want to drill. This provides a holding point for the burr when you start to drill the glass and prevents it skipping.

What I do is pinpoint the spot that I need to drill, holding the drill steady on that point I twist the drill bit with my fingers back and forth slowly which the creates an indention in the glass, once I have done that holding the drill steady I hit the slow rotation switch. I have not had any problem with drill scratch since I started doing this, hope this helps

Glasseye wrote:To stop the drill skipping across the glass when you start to drill. Hold the drill firmly with both hands and at angle of 45 degrees to the glass surface. Then use the drill burr to dimple the glass at the point you want to drill. This provides a holding point for the burr when you start to drill the glass and prevents it skipping.

Use this method.
Dont look away while you are drilling.

I use my dominate hand to hold the drill and my off hand to brace it. Do what Glasseye said, and hold one hand on the glass usually behind the drill in the direction it will want to go if you let it. Bracing this way will prevent the drill from running as you are blocking off this line of travel.

If you are still having trouble you might try using a paper punch or something and putting a hole in a square of clear packing tape, center the hole over where you want to drill. Stick it down and that should stop it from scratching if it does run.

I don't know of any way to get those scratches out once they are in the glass. I've been where you are, but after a lot of practice this is a rare occurrence for me anymore. It usually happens when the chip is almost out of reach and I really can't get the good position I like. I need longer arms, and legs too. Tall people have an advantage sometimes.

Two factors (besides technique) are the equipment that you are usuing. Some suppliers sell fluted drill bits rather than burrs. Fluted bits easily drift away from the intended hole whereas burrs (in good condition) usually drill directly into the glass without drifting. I use a burr that is originally from the dental industry called an FJ-2 (if I remember correctly). I'd be interested in hearing about any other burrs that others recommend.

The best drill motor I've found for windshield repairs is the 7.2 volt Dremel Stylus™ Lithium-ion Cordless. This model has the handle integrated into it so it is much more balanced and under control. It's around $75 at Home Depot or Lowes. You also have to purchase the accessory package of 4 different size chucks to get the one small enough for the burrs. The original one doesn't get small enough to clamp the burr.

Once a windshield is scratched, it's a whole new skill and proceedure to remove it - one that I'm not familier with other than it's a lot of time and effort to get results.

Jere - Owner of Attack-A-Crack Windshield Repair - Lake Elsinore, CA.

Best way I find to prevent scratches is to practise more on your practise windshield.

Thanks for all your help all of was very helpful. I have been using a Dremel 4.8v and FG701 Burs from Detla, I also have FG2 burs from themthat I'll try ou. When it's all said and done I know with more practice I will improve. Again guys thanks!

You will find the FG2, FG329 and other shaped burs are much easier to keep from skipping but when used correctly the FG701 is the perfect size and shape to pop a mini-bullseye if using the slide hammer or spring hammer. The FG701 is tapered and fluted, but it is still a bur. Beyond getting the proper hole size to pop a mini-bullseye the advantages of the FG701 are longer bur life and faster drilling. With the proper technique and a little practice you shouldn't have any problem with skipping.

I use a brand new bit when having to drill on an undamaged area such as when repairing a crack. I had the skipping issue also until I started doing this.