Alternative to capping a pit and it works

[sgearhart]

I am new at windshield repair but always try to improve how things are done. The first time I capped a pit like I learned in class the resin ended up blocking the cracked area when it was drilled out so the resin did not reach all of the cracks. I had a thought, so came home and tried it on an old practice windshield. I took a square curing tab and put double sided tape completely on the side pressing next to the glass. I then took the end of a paper clip and got it really hot so that I could burn a hole right in the middle of the curing tab that would be large enough for resin to get through. Pressing the curing tab to the glass pit using the pit finder tool and pressing down the double sided tape. I began the regular process of filling the pit with resin and it didn't leak out and filled up all of the crack lines. The only problem that I had was a half moon air pocket the size of a fingernail. I tried drilling into it and filling the air pocket, but it didn't work. Need to get the drilling down if anyone has any tips for me on that. This process may not work as good on the curved part of the windshield.

[Dave M]

I'm sorry, I don't understand this post!

[sgearhart]

If the surface area on the glass is larger than your injector seal it leaks out so you have to
Cap it with pit resin and cure it. Then you dill it and hope the resin reaches all the legs of the break.

I took a curing tab and placed double sided tape all over the back and burned a hole
Large enough for resin to flow by getting the end of a paperclip hot with a lighter. Now you have
A curing tab with a hole in the middle with tape on the back that will allow resin into
The break without capping it first. The only problem I had was a little air pocket that didn't fill
In, but all of the cracks filled with resin. I hope tis is more clear, but I am very new at this process

[Mr Bill]

How about a photo?
Would a chip saver do the same job?

[candyman]

I've got a friend that has a hotdog concession stand made from a old bread truck. The drivers side has an old break in the lower portion of the WS with 3, Z like cracks about 6 inches each. Its a old crack. The break is bigger than the injector seal. I will try a chip saver to see if that might work vs capping. I plan to do this Friday if it doesnt rain. I will post the results over the weekend or after I try it. I just got a bigger intense UV lamp and I will use that to cure it.

[sgearhart]

I was thinking the curing tab would be better beause it was thicker and offered
More support. I don't see why a chip saver wouldn't work as long as the resin can get through.
I am going to experiment with it myself to see which is better. Does anyone have a
Video on repairing a 6 inch long crack with a crack expander they would be willing to share
With me?

[candyman]

The reason Ia going to try a chip saver is that it is sticky on one side. The curing tab would slide unless you taped it down.

[sgearhart]

I agree, and that is why I used double sided tape on all of the bottom so it would stick
To the glass. This could be something that Delta kits could perfect for us and sell the right
Thickness with the hole already in it and the perfect clarity and amount of adhesive.

[screenman]

Perfecting your capping technique I feel would be better, we played around with things like this many years ago and you cannot get a good enough seal to create the pressure sometimes required. Hence you part of the break not filled.

[Brent Deines]

Perfecting your capping technique I feel would be better, we played around with things like this many years ago and you cannot get a good enough seal to create the pressure sometimes required. Hence you part of the break not filled.

That's what we have found as well, mainly because you need a hard surface to get a proper seal between the injector and the glass or cap. A curing tab is too flexible, you would need something rigid.

For larger pits, plate glass resin (higher viscosity) works better for capping than pit resin, but I rarely find it necessary to use anything with a higher viscosity than our Premium Pit Plus (3600cps). Hole placement is critical after capping and unless the pit extends to the PVB, drilling until you hit glass ensures that you are through the cap.

If you are convinced you need something to stick over the top of the hole you may want to try this, which incorporates your suggestions with a twist: Use a self adhesive chip saver to cover the pit area, then cover the entire outer surface of the chip saver with pit resin or plate glass resin, cover with a curing tab and cure. The idea is that you leave a 1/16" layer of hardened resin on top of the chip saver so you now have a hard, flat surface to work with. Use the smallest bur you have and drill a hole through the hardened resin and chip saver. Even if you do use a curing tab you don't need to heat a needle to melt through a curing tab, your drill will work just fine. I have used this method on extremely large and deep pit areas with reasonable success, but if the damage is so severe that the traditional resin only capping method does not work, a repair is probably not the best option anyway. Keep in mind you will have to scrape off the resin and remove the chip saver after curing, then apply more pit resin, cover, cure, scrape and polish as usual.

Large pit adapters do not work well with Delta Kits injectors. Just figured I would throw that out there as that is usually the next suggestion from new technicians.

In my 25 years of experience I've had a number of new technicians, and a few experienced technicians, suggest that there are better ways of preparing a large pit area for injection, but capping with a high viscosity resin is still the simplest and most effective method I have found when performed correctly.