Windshield Repair Forum

Hey Guys,

I wanted to ask you all what you do to effectively stop a crack that has started running. I have been drilling a hole in front of the end of the crack and popping a bullseye then filling , but lately my luck has turned bad with this method. The past three times I have tried this method, the crack jumped past my bullseye when I "popped" the bullseye. I'm using a bur bit and drilling deep into the first layer then I use a delta slide hammer to pop the bullseye...but the crack jumps past the bullseye. What the heck am I doing wrong? I've been successful at this method many many times but it seems either my luck has ran out or I'm doing something wrong. By the way, I typed this post on my phone att my location so I apologize for any grammar or spelling errors.

Thanks

Dan

I like to drill almost to the laminate pull the dremil back a little so the drill is loose in the hole and give it a lite tap also Screen advised me a while back on the fragile ones to resin and cure the crack before dealing with the end. I like the capilary method once cured i drill and do the end this method has been working for me.

How can you be a windshield repairer if you do not do cracks. With the correct skill set and training they are absolutely simple, and as for extra resin used I have not noticed that again back to skills.

If you are continually making the cracks longer when drilling and popping then you need to practise more on the practise glass. Getting the depth right is half of the skill and only dropping the slide hammer gently, if it does not pop first time drill slightly deeper.

I charge more for long cracks than chip repairs which should offset the extra resin you have to use. Simple enough to me

It seems that when the windshield is hot that popping a bullseye is a little more difficult. Try cooling the windshield by parking in the shade for a few minutes before you attempt to tap the bullseye. Normally I will mark the windshield about a 1/4" from the end of the crack with an ink pen then I proceed to drill half way through the top layer. If it is not possible to cool the windshield you may have to start drilling a little further away from the end of the point, just be sure that you are lined up correctly at the end of the point so when you do tap the bullseye and the crack spreads a little bit more that it will end of in the middle of the bullseye.

screenman wrote:How can you be a windshield repairer if you do not do cracks..

I believe it depends on your clientele. The high end cars dealers and owners would never consider doing a long crack repair. Thus, one can be a windshield repairer and not do long cracks. Just saying......

t4k wrote:

screenman wrote:How can you be a windshield repairer if you do not do cracks..

I believe it depends on your clientele. The high end cars dealers and owners would never consider doing a long crack repair. Thus, one can be a windshield repairer and not do long cracks. Just saying......

I have repaired cracks 6" to 12" long on Mercedes, Corvettes, Porsche, Cadillac and Jaguar to name a few. So never say never.

Dr.Chipster wrote:

t4k wrote:

screenman wrote:How can you be a windshield repairer if you do not do cracks..

I believe it depends on your clientele. The high end cars dealers and owners would never consider doing a long crack repair. Thus, one can be a windshield repairer and not do long cracks. Just saying......

I have repaired cracks 6" to 12" long on Mercedes, Corvettes, Porsche, Cadillac and Jaguar to name a few. So never say never.

Most people that can afford those cars can afford a new w/s.

I cant remember the last time I broke a drill bit If you use them sharp and dont try to keep using them rather than replacing them cause your to cheap to spend a buck, If you let them do the work and dont press too hard while holding the drill even you shouldnt be breaking them learning to use ones tools correctly is part of any job