What about when half of the lens is in great shape?

[davidc11291]

Brent, this thread got me thinking. The Infinity is designed specifically to be absorbed by/bond to polycarbonate. Since we're talking about applying it to OEM coatings, and OEM coatings are a completely different surface than polycarbonate, how to you think the durability will be affected when the Infinity is applied to the OEM coating instead of bare polycarbonate?

[Brent Deines]

That's a good question. Although it was not specifically formulated to bond to other coatings, a number of technicians, including some on this forum, have been applying it that way for a year or more now with no reported adhesion problems so far.

We have done extensive testing including the application of Infinity to highly polished surfaces and have not found adhesion to be an issue, which is very unlike many of the higher viscosity coatings we tested that require scuffing to adhere properly.

[pommy]

I've tested the cr@p out of Infinity.

On a brand new headlight - fully cured Infinity passed the "screwdriver" test with flying colors! I scraped hard and the Infinity had become one with the polycarbonate.

(The headlight was from a new car sales lot which had been cracked and lugs broken off)

I've also heat tested it with a heat gun, chemical tested it with solvents and tested it with various abrasives.

Off to do some now

Have a great day!

[Old Blue 66]

Hi,

Sorry I meant - as the Infinity doesn't sink in right away on the OEM coating - it's easier to spread it around if you do get lines

Regarding two coats - well, the better prepared the surface, the less Infinity you need.

For instance - in those actual pictures I posted - I used a compound to polish the top to match the bottom after using the 1200 (no 3000). Then I applied the Infinity.

I used the compound to help blend and more-so to give a similar surface to the OEM coating below it.

That's the reason why it looks so shiny - and just one coat as used.

The cost of the Infinity in this case was minimal - I used 8ml/2ml for both lenses and still poured some away.

Cheers,

Pommy

Oh, if you don't have/like compounds - use the 3000 polish pad wet - you will be able to get a slightly better glossy finish before applying the Infinity.

UPDATE:

I did the exact method you described above. 320 and 500 on the top, then 800, 1500 and 3000 on the whole lens. I dont use 1200.

I just saw that! - I don't sand the OEM coating - I meant you can blend the line from 800 onwards but only on the line to hide it.

OK here is how I do it...

The set I did yesterday (should have taken pics!) were damaged on top, I found where they were damaged to - then about 2/3 from the bottom up I masked a straight line.

I used 320, 400, 800, 1200 and then I took off the tape and used a compound to clear the haze and match the lower portion. I then applied Infinity over the whole lens.

Just one coat. Perfect.

Because I used the compound - the two surfaces were similar, so there was no matt effect from absorption.

Hope this helps, this is the way I normally do it - sorry if I misled.

The way I described earlier was for blending/feathering the line.

I tried the GT Glass compound today. Then applied a coat of Infinity. All I can say is wow!!! No more double coats of Infinity, thats for sure.

Pommy, when it comes to blending, do you run the compound over the entire lens? And/or do you wipe Infinity over the entire lens? Can you explain a little more detail? I REALLY love this. Mostly because there are some lenses that when you hit 3000 your still not sure how they will come out and for blending purposes. Id much rather have this in my back pocket for those times.

[pommy]

I tried the GT Glass compound today. Then applied a coat of Infinity. All I can say is wow!!! No more double coats of Infinity, thats for sure.

You do get a much more glossy finish this way - again, the porosity theory coming into play

Pommy, when it comes to blending, do you run the compound over the entire lens?

Essentially, when you've completed the sanding sequence, you should have the OEM and the foggy part you just restored. All you are doing here is restoring the clarity to match the lower half. I always run it over the bottom too as it clears any imperfections/bugs - but only after the top is crystal clear and ready.

...do you wipe Infinity over the entire lens?

Yes, always. Just so it is uniform coverage, rather than having an edge somewhere in the middle of the lens. It also fills any small scratches or chips in the OEM. Regarding usage - the coating will go a lot further as both surfaces are less porous now.

Can you explain a little more detail?

Apart from what I've put - the most important thing here is that the GT product does not work with a random orbital. No chance. You must use a rotary drill, orange pad and very firm pressure at a slow speed over the lens.

Mist the lens, damp pad - pea sized amount of compound on the pad - press a few places with the pad to spread on the lens. FIRM & SLOW is the key. Not fast polishing, it doesn't work and causes heat and kills the pad too.

Don't soak the lens or the pad - there is no need for this product to sling/fling everywhere. If it does, the pad is too wet or you have used too much water.

I REALLY love this. Mostly because there are some lenses that when you hit 3000 your still not sure how they will come out and for blending purposes. Id much rather have this in my back pocket for those times.

I knew you would! You should be able to make a lens clear as glass - without the Infinity. Infinity is awesome with the right prep.

Just to prove - If you finish on a 3000 pad - THEN hit it with the compound, it's like night and day the difference.

Oh, you don't need to use a 3000 disc - the GT will work on a 1200/1500 finish. I sometimes use the 3000 to clear the lens to check for nasty scratches on perfectionist customers who want them like brand new (can easily be done this way).

Hope this info helps

[Old Blue 66]

Thanks for your help Pommy. All advice is well taken and used exactly as described. I ordered the compound and I cant wait for Wednesday (delivery date) to get this rolling. Now I need to order more Infinity.

Id recommend this process to everyone. It works that well.

[pommy]

Not a problem

One thing I did miss out, which I sent in a PM to you I think - for others reading, use a drill with a side handle attachment!

Please don't try it without.

You need FIRM (lean against) pressure with control. Use your leg and "walk" the drill around.

Have a great day

[Old Blue 66]

I know what you mean about the side attachment. I have a battery operated one but its only good for one set of lenses. I did do it with a plain old drill and it went ok. I'm looking for one with a side arm right now. I know GT Glass sells one, but I question the quality.

[pommy]

That's a polisher or "vertical polisher" as they like to call it.

Don't buy it as it won't take the pressure for long, if at all - then it will burn out.

A cheap drill will be perfect as all drills are designed for resistance.

Generally, it has to be a hammer/impact drill to come with a side handle

Cheers,

Pommy

[glassdoctor]

Pommy, it's interesting to hear that 4.1 is working on a polished lens. When it first came out, that's exactly what I wanted to use it for...topping the ez polish jobs. But I was advised by Delta that it was not a good idea, and someone here reported that it peeled where it was applied to the factory coating that was not sanded. I tried a sample... (only enough for a couple cars) which seemed to work pretty good, but one of the cars I did (07 camry) looked better the day it was done than it did after a couple weeks. Some of the "stuff" that was filled/invisible at first, became more noticable. I wasn't able to track it long term, but just seeing a slight change in 2 weeks made me wonder about 1-2 years?

Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience with it. You have me wanting to pick up a bottle to try again. lol The one thing I really would like to know... What happens if you hit it with a pressure washer, as people will do to get bugs off, etc? This stuff won't peel at all????? If it can stand up to that, I will be giving DK a call.

I've been using UV cure spray coatings for the past year or so on most jobs, but might be looking to change things up a bit. Seems I do that every couple of years either out of boredom or simply a search for a new silver bullet or better toys to play with.