Methods Of Repairing Crack

[sunshine wr]

Since we seem to be on the subject, I would like to hear some of the different techniques you WR techs. are using. I use my injector and try to inject without cr jacks ,if resin won't flow then I jack it open. I pop a mini at the end only if the crack has surfaced . I use Delta cure tape (seems to keep air out better than the tabs). Tape and cure about every 3'' to 4'' . I've used Janvil crack erase and Glasweld 2000 and 1000 with O.K. results from both.

[GlasWeldTech]

After examining it very carefully and carefully flexing the very end to see if there is what I call a false end (which is rarely seen and can extend much longer than the crack visibly looks-Once you see one like this you will know it). I drill and anchor the end with a bullseye and I also drill out the inpact some to help resin flow into better. I lay out my film tabs and get everything I will need so I can stay with the crack until finished. I use the cheapest hand lotion I can find for my suction cups to slide with. Before lubing the cups up I preset my crack bridge and follow the crack to make sure of my adjustments before tightening it all down. I would rather follow the crack from the underside if possible to keep out any unwanted lotion from coming into contact with the crack. Never lean or apply pressure to the windshield while working on the crack. I hardly ever have to use crack jacks but at times do and have several. If the resins stops flowing I will get inside the vehicle and apply light thumb pressure just in front of where I need the resin to flow and it will usually start again. As the crack is filling I go over where it has filled every inch or so and apply some crack resin and film tabs. Fill the crack and bullseye with both vacuum and pressure cycles and then cure, scrape resin away, and polish.Like I say I will spend the extra time during my cures of cracks to assure a good long cure. This works well for me and I am sure there are many other ways that will work as good as or better than this way.I will also not try and attempt and crack repair out in the sun and will move or have the customer move into some shade.

[GlasWeldTech]

On the cracks with false ends that I mentioned in my first post I will not repair them as they are what I deem unstable.

[desertstars]

I'm a bit hazy on that latter point, GlassWeldTech.

That "false end" discovered by gentle flexing usually extends a quarter inch or less. I mark and drill at the end of that "false end" (always a dicey proposition for many reasons); pop the bullseye and proceed with the repair. (I ALWAYS use a magnifying glass to determine the precise spot to drill).

Depending on how deep one drills governs the size of the bullseye.

Ergo: Small bullseye for unfeathered end; larger bullseye for feathered end.

In any event, I will not repair a crack unless the customer has full w/s coverage or understands that the crack may spread during a repair. In the latter case, the w/s is already "done for" before I arrived.

[sunshine wr]

thanks guys for your posts . glasweldtech do you use the equipment your name implies ? just curious, it is what i use.

[GlasWeldTech]

Yes Unshine I do

[GlasWeldTech]

I mean Sunshine-Sorry

[Mr. crack]

what is the difference between an unfeathered and feathered end desertstars?

[Mr. crack]

please help I'm confused.... Deltakits recomends not fixing long cracks if you want to have a profitable business without wasting time and resin; they rather fix small cracks and impacts;however, long cracks is what I see the most that needs to be fixed at least in my area. The people that have come to me they all have long cracks instead of bulls eye or star break or any other amall impacts on their windshields

[gt_repair]

Maybe Delta's resin can not hold up to long cracks,,
Call Glass Technology and try there CR resin.