Windshield Repair Forum

DeltaKits

Nice articles in your latest mailing.

I was wondering if you know of any evidence that Rainx or Aquapel could affect a break that occurs after the treatment is applied. If someone drives in the rain all day with the wipers going, is there any possibility that the treatment product could find it's way into the chip?

I am curious mainly because I might try stocking some aquapel this spring as an upsell. I want to at least try some on my own vehicles. If I think it's awsome, then I won't hesitate to "push" it on others.

Glassdoctor,

Once the Rain-X or Aquapel is applied and fully dried, we have not seen any evidence of it getting into a break.

What you have to be careful of though, is your pit resin's adherence to the surrounding glass that has been treated. If you have either of these products applied to your windshield, and then you get a rock chip, you will want to make sure the surrounding area is free of Rain-X or Aquapel prior to doing the repair, using the methods in the newsletter...

Good question!

I could very well be wrong here but like my Irish grandmother used to say: "I don't know, but I don't think so!"

The only time I see those type of products applied to a windshield effecting the results of a repair is if they are applied AFTER the damage has already occurred.

And that usually only concerning a surface crack and not much more and I'll say why later.

In the former case (post application) the product had permeated and been inspirated or had potentially corrupted an effective repair.

The question now becomes how effective a repair is if the resin is combined or possibly diluted by those products as opposed to whether one should repair a windshield PREVIOUSLY treated before the damage.

Of course one should. That product is even less harder than the windshield it treated in the first place.

I don't rely on the customer's answer when I ask them whether or not they treated the windshield before or after they had the damage except in cases of a crack.

Repair1 will disagree with me on this, I'm sure. (Hey, that's OK.)

I scrape-probe and then drill almost every repair because it's better than cleaning out a break than a probe itself and it EFFECTIVELY speeds up the suction and pressure cycles as well as expelling contaminates in the process.

Just to be more specific, those market applications over cracks are another matter entirely.

This whole matter is one of the reasons why w/s repair takes more brains than simple pop-out and replace people other than those expert replacement techs who know their business.

desertstars wrote: Repair1 will disagree with me on this, I'm sure. (Hey, that's OK.)

I agree with what you said you just have a way with words much better than I thats for sure.
When I mentioned drilling before my point being that it is not necessary to drill deep into every break I

If the "stuff" can't penetrate into the break, then it's all good. I am not concerned about the pit. I don't fill the pits without prepping them anyway. I scuff the pit with a drill burr for the best adhesion and looks.

I am curious why everyone picks and probes at the impact pit. I have never seen the need to poke around and chip away glass or dirt, etc. I just always use a drill to do any scuffing or "cleaning" out the pit. Just funny to me that's all.

And there you go.

Thanks for the input.

I use a drill more than I use a probe in almost all cases.

I use a probe when the impact results in loose glass shards on bad impacts that need to be cleaned away.

Otherwise, I drill. Almost always.

And, as Brian states, the DEPTH of my drilling has much to do with the type of damage.

That determination comes with experience and there is no fast and hard rule.

I will admit that I drill almost every break I encounter because my drill point is invariably much smaller than the impact point and I find that the positives much outweigh the negatives unless one drills into the laminate.

Have Drill, Will Bill
David
Coitster