Windshield Repair Forum

I have been practicing all the different types of breaks with my Delta Kit and just have a few questions. Sometimes when i apply the pit resin and let the UV light sit for about 4 min the center of the pit comes off when i scrape the top with the blade, are there any tips for preventing this?
Also when i repair a chip with alot of legs shooting in all directions, i am able to get most of them out but some of them u can still just barely see, is this normal?(i have been heating most of the time because im not real comfortable on flexing)
The ony thing that I have tried and failed on was repairing cracks, is there any info you guys can give me on doing this. I tried the crack expander and heating but still could not get it to work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve

First question is what angle are you holding your razor blade at when you scrape. It should be perpendicular to the glass. Your problem with filling cracks makes me think it is also likely that your practice glass may have rain x or another water repellant on it. Try cleaning the area where you are making your damage with some alcohol before you make the damage.
When you say you can still barely see the legs does it look like a strand of spider web? If, so yes some scarring can be expected. Don't be afraid to try flexing that is what practice is for.

Bushwhacker be sure to scrape year pit resin with your razor blade straight up and down do not use your razor blade like you are trying to scrape off pain from a window

Bushwacker, where are you located in La.?

Hammond

Yup.

Scrape perpendicular with a SHARP blade AFTER fully cured.

Four minutes with a UV light might be sufficient depending on the battery power.

That comes down to UV intensity rather than length of time.

And, let's stop kidding ourselves.

Hardly any repair becomes invisible and if it does kneel down and thank the Almighty.

We are in the business of SAVING windshields.

We are not in the business of making windshields look like some resurrected Barbie doll retrieved from the jaws of a viscious and rabid pit bull.

Esthetics are within the province of artists and dedicated repair techs who care.

Nevertheless, good looks are in reality a secondary consideration.

Do NOT fall into the trap of allowing replacement people to set our standards of repair or to con the consumer into thinking that anything less than an invisible repair is a standard.

If you don't prep the customer up front that the repair MIGHT look around 80% better but guaranteeing them it won't spread, you are asking for trouble.

Only after that, do your best to make it look at least 95% better and you and your customer will both be satisfied.

Do that while constantly striving to make your repairs look invisibile and you may have set an unattainable goal.

But, it's a goal well worth striving toward.

BushWacke, practice that flexing once you get the hang of it you'll be addicted , pressing that glass and watching that resin flow MAN see ya later I got to go do some repairing.

Im new as well and I am having the same problem with the pit. I have been given some advise on how to avoid this and will be trying. As far as flexing goes I have been flexing on all the cracks I do since I started and I see the resin flow in when I do it but as soon as I release pressure I see the resin come back out. Is there a way around this? I hardly ever heat. I have only done about 10 windshields so far and I prefer to flex. That will prob change though as soon as I get more confident with it.

the center of the pit comes off when i scrape the top with the blade

I would say that 95% of the time, this problem is caused by exactly what everyone has said. If you hold the blade at an angle, it can flex and scoop the pit out (it only needs to flex slightly). Hold the blade at a 90 degree angle to the windshield, straight up and down, and it will make an awful scraping noise. Always use a new blade (come on guys, they're cheap, and you can buy them somewhere else if you don't want to support a manufacturer ). Always use a new blade, and always scrape straight up and down, and you won't have that problem.

Oh, and the other 5%? Not curing long enough.

ok I got ya. I have been trying both holding the blade at 45 and 90 angle. But when I do it at a 90 angle the blade wont remove all of the "hump" of hardened resin. It just skips over the hump with every pass. Its like the resin is too hard for the razor at that angle and it seems if I put anymore pressure while scraping its going to break the razor! so thats when I have been scraping at a 45 angle first and then finishing it with a 90 angle scrape (like in the delta instruction video) but I still have the same problem.