Windshield Repair Forum

General rule of thumb for newbies is two minutes per lens per disc. Watch and look at the lens after each disc. How does it feel and most importantly, what does it look like. After 500 it should be cloudy and smooth. After 800 it should still be cloudy but you start to see the inside of the assembly just a bit (it should be consistent all over the lens - watch for deep scratches from a 5000 or 320 disc and get them out.) We use a finishing disc at 1200 (Indasa RhynoGrip FilmLine Sanding Discs instead of the red ones) and the lens begins to get clear and has a haze over it. At 1500 (same white finishing disc) the lens is pretty clear. At 3000 the lens is totally clear but has a gray hue to it. Thats when we hit it wit GT Compound to make it "HD" clear.

Pigtails happen because there is build up on the disc. If they appear after your done with a disc, most of the time time the next disc will get rid of them or you can go over the lens for just 10 seconds with a new same grit disc.

Mirka Abralon disks are also great and what we use. If your finishing disks are used correctly, there's no need for compounding or polishing.

t4k wrote:Mirka Abralon disks are also great and what we use. If your finishing disks are used correctly, there's no need for compounding or polishing.

Completely disagree.

Old Blue 66 wrote:

t4k wrote:Mirka Abralon disks are also great and what we use. If your finishing disks are used correctly, there's no need for compounding or polishing.

Completely disagree.

I knew you would! In fact, I would have been somewhat disappointed had you not!

That's what's so great about this business.....there's many ways to complete the task at hand. If your customers are happy then you are good to go!

Thank you so much.

Old Blue 66 uses a product I sometimes use, depending on the lens. It does work. However after you polish with the 3000 it should be clear. Sometimes , depending on the lens , vehicle make, it may not have that wow shine, or finish. Once you apply the 4.1 or Clear2coat it should clear up completely. Its hard to describe methods to someone that has not done several. Some of these post simply gives you an insight as to what to look for while sanding.

candyman wrote: However after you polish with the 3000 it should be clear. Sometimes , depending on the lens , vehicle make, it may not have that wow shine, or finish. Once you apply the 4.1 or Clear2coat it should clear up completely.

Exactly!

My final polishing pad is a 4000 grit. No compounding required!!

mobilejay wrote:
I will most likely get some junk yard lights to mess with first.

This is what I did to practice, seven years ago when I first got into headlight restoration.

My backyard workshop became my R & D department.

t4k wrote:

mobilejay wrote:
I will most likely get some junk yard lights to mess with first.

This is what I did to practice, seven years ago when I first got into headlight restoration.

My backyard workshop became my R & D department.

Same here. But the junk yard should let yo work at their yard. Thats what I did. ya cant make them any worse!

t4k wrote:

candyman wrote: However after you polish with the 3000 it should be clear. Sometimes , depending on the lens , vehicle make, it may not have that wow shine, or finish. Once you apply the 4.1 or Clear2coat it should clear up completely.

Exactly!

My final polishing pad is a 4000 grit. No compounding required!!

I did research on the disc you use. They are expensive!! And yo m,ust have a different sanding grit procedure too as they dont make a 1200 or a 1500. I think the compound tales less time than using a disc. Go over the lens once and you're done. Just my opinion.