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Posted: April 10th, 2004, 11:29 pm
by Repair1
I see all these post when everybody says, while doing a test repair inside 70 degree

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 2:03 pm
by GlassStarz
I use it when needed (5%??) but I agree its a can of worms you dont want to open if you dont have to. :roll:

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 5:15 pm
by driller
I'm brand new to windshield repair, so new I've only done one retail job that was a large combination break with a chip of glass missing from the impact area. The break came out very nice with no air and all legs filled.

Anyways as far as heat goes ,last week after it rained it was very cool here in Houston around 60 deg. so I went out to my practice windshield and had a combination break with four legs hanging off it and eight inches below it was a simple bullseye. I got my evaporater out to make sure the bullseye was free of moisture and not 3 seconds later the combo above it split six inches in a snap.

So I'm very very careful with heat now . :shock:

btw: I would like to thank ( Coitster ) for his time with me and my brother. Hands on training and explanation of how things work was a huge help for us .

DataTranz

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 5:30 pm
by GlassStarz
Id do the woopty with a goat and give you 20 minutes to draw a crowd for a 60 deg day cool my ass that would be a heat wave havnt seen 60deg since sept

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 6:04 pm
by glassdoctor
Yeah the miracle moisture evaporators will stab you in the back one day...

GlassStarz, I'm sure Jeff will appreciate your graphic post... ;)

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 6:15 pm
by CPR
Well sell your goat and move down here, 60* is considered a cold front in Florida (Ha Ha), anyway the GM training video I have makes heat applications a must on every cycle ! Looks great on tv but never seems to make a difference to me, done it with and without, and without wins !!

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 6:30 pm
by glassdoctor
Yep, I tried to say something about heat once in the GM forums... not a good idea :) GM doesn't take kindly to thinking outside their box.

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 8:25 pm
by mafsu
I use heat very rarely. When I do use it is almost always on a bulls eye with a stubborn bubble I can't get to move by any other means. It probably only works about 10% of the time on these. I do of course use heat to remove moisture, but I don't even do that very often as I prefer the method of waiting a day or so for the damage to dry on it's own if at all possible. It has also been my experience that once most resins are heated they are not as transparent as without the heat. The same applies to resin that is injected into an extremely hot windshield.

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 8:59 pm
by magicogar
mafsu,

That's what I was thinking also about resin not being transparent when heated. If you read my recent posts, I used heat on the bullseye and everytime, there's this halo around the bullseye.

Also, in the Delta training video, I saw the guy using the evaporator on a bullseye to remove moisture. He held it for awhile until the water bubbles and evaporate. The windshield must really be hot for the water to start bubbling. If i leave the evaporator on the windshield for awhile, does it damaged the windshield?

Posted: April 11th, 2004, 9:24 pm
by glassdoctor
It can... you can actualy melt the pvb layer. I don't know if the DryStar will do that, but a bic lighter/mini torch sure can.

But you won't hurt the w/s at 200-250* required to boil the water... you might crack it but you won't hurt hte glass otherwise. ;)