Close to the Edge

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
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qtla9111
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Post by qtla9111 »

I have an upcoming repair on a VW Pointer and the break is about an inch from the bottom edge. Will this present a problem? It is a dime size star. Thanks in advance for your help!
Trailmanor, "It really is the greatest thing on wheels".
gold star wsr
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Post by gold star wsr »

You didnt say what type of system you are using, but with most equipment that should not be a problem. Just be careful about exerting too much pressure, since you will be working on the edge. Typically that is the weakest part of the glass.
Mark

cleaning injectors

Post by Mark »

Yep I found out about the weakest part of the glass today. I walked into a business and spotted 6 vehicles that needed my services walked in AKA Coister asked for the biz and got it. First guy had one of the trucks. A quater size bull right in the middle. No sweat, got started with the Ins work and went to work on the break.

As I was deep into the repair I spied a tiny little batwing maybe 3/8 of an inch from one end to the other about two inches from the edge of the glass. Got the okay and went to work with my second injector, man was I in tall cotton. Did it all according to Hoyle and in just a couple of minutes the little batwing was now a crack two inches most of which was running towards the edge. I worked and filled was amazed as I saw the crack fill in. Then went back to the other one while on pressure with the batwing. a few moments later the little bat was now an 8 inch crack running-out and headed towards the middle. Very high pucker/stress factor going on. I popped a bull where I thought the crack ended running towards the middle to stop it, but no it was going to go just a half inch more to show me. The good news was at this point the main part of the crack was filling in both directions from the injector I started the repair with so all was not lost. I finished the first break (the bullseye) and put it on cure while I began to fill the Mark made bull with my first injector.

Almost two hours it took from first contact, insurance and finish. To say I was not happy was an understatement. I left without asking for anymore business there. I felt like the reason good repair guys take biz from less than pro repair guys. I don't know what I could have done any differently with that tiny batwing. I mean I almost missed it, it was so dang small, not anymore. The customer was cool as I explained what had happened. I kept him from getting his lunch, so when I went for the finish of the paperwork I slipped him a 10 for lunch. Not sure if I was trying to make up for the way the repair went or actually for holding him up from lunch. Anyway I may go back in a couple of weeks and get the rest of the biz there.

The great news for the day was, as I was working on that job and the first one of the day I picked up two more repairs from people just walking by and asking how much? I know none of you seasoned repair folks have every had either of the two happen to you....lolololol :lol:

I wanted to just call it a day after the batwing grew into this monster crack, almost did but I got a call for a cash job and could not say no.


mark
gt_repair

Post by gt_repair »

Mark
The first thing you have to do is make sure the glass is cool.
If you can not touch the glass you can not work it.
I shade down the W/S when I think it is warm or even just for the shade. Good eye catcher for starters.
Mark

Post by Mark »

Yep very good idea. I always check the glass with the back of my hand to find the temp. Then I cover it with a towel that has two suction cups on it so it will stay in place, I work under the towel. It can get pretty hot here and high UV. I did not want to put up the EZup, was just not hot enough here today. Maybe 65, and a bit windy.

I have since thought of what I did today after I wrote the prior post out(a good way for me to think is to put it on paper) I could have unscrewed the injector and lessen the physical pressure when the crack first started, don't know if this would have helped or not. Then I would have had to reload the injector with resin. I know I was less than a full turn on physical pressure and as best as I remember just had the back legs snug to the glass.

Hindsight- the best way to live your life -without mistakes- if you could....lolololoolool

mark
desertstars

nwra contributions

Post by desertstars »

Just my usual half-assed opinion.

A towell does not block UV rays in most cases.

It is a weaved substance and WILL allow UV rays to penetrate depending on weaved factors.

Use an acceptable UV shield.

Furthermore, in my past posts, I have explained why ANY damage in the frit area of a windshield WILL expand given the opportunity under even minimum pressure.

Particularly in those cases, COOLING the windshield to at least ambient temperature BEFORE attempting a repair is of paramount importance.

And, even then, in that frit area, proceeding with the repair with anything less than extreme caution is a roll of the dice.
glassdoctor
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creating a bullseye

Post by glassdoctor »

Mark... the lesson is never leave a chip on the edge like that alone, especially after it popped an inch or two the first time. Keep focused on it until it's done. It's when you take your eye off it that bad things seem to happen. Been there...


desertstars

Towels do fine to block UV... unless you need to block it for hours anyway.

Why is it I get a farmer tan when only wearing an old tshirt? Because the old cotton blocks the UV.

Besides that, I have used folded shop rags as UV screen for 12+ years without an issue. I do fold them in half to double up the material, and then wrap them around the bridge.

I admit I used to wonder about how effective they were, but I have yet to have a problem in using them.
GlassStarz
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Post by GlassStarz »

Desert,
I have a great deal of respect for you and find myself agreeing with your posts in a big way that said I have to dissagree on the rag theory the reason you dont get sunburned under your clothes is that the cloth blocks the UV. I use a thick dark colored towel exclusivly without a single problem those UV shields are a pain Even mfgs like GT and WD now push the rag over the UV shield.
gt_repair

NWRA Why I joined ....

Post by gt_repair »

glassStarz
I use an umbrella to shade the w/s to cool it down, then use coton shop towels. to help on the UV.

The umbrella is atached to a peice of about 4 x 6 X 1/4 lexan (glass shop) with 4 1 1/2" sucton cups in each corner (ace hardware) then atach an ajustable flag pole holder (ace Hardware) with PVC tube and end cap (ace Hardware) slid inside that for an umbrella (department store, Osco drugs) to fit snug inside that. The umbrella's I use are the ones that have a clamp for your lawn chairs. $3.00 each.

Simple and inexpencive.


That will shade the hole w/s or half depending on your ajustment.
Mark

Post by Mark »

GT
Great idea for the umbrella. I will have to go make one. I like simple and inexpensive. I have a couple of golf umbrella's and was thinking about how I might attach them.
As far as the colored mylar UV shade, I do not have one and they look small so my thinking was that the reflective UV would bounce around them. they must work or they would not get sold. But I like the lager working area that comes with a big thick towel. I have also thought about one of the inside windshield UV blockers. They make ones that are flexible (not cardboard) and have a shiny reflective finish on one or both sides. Put a couple three suction cups on it and slap that down, covers the windshield, blocks the UV and keeps the working area cooler. Seven bucks at Wally mart and lightweight, suction cups with hooks 1-1/4" a couple of bucks for 4-6.


One more thing from wallymart. they sell the microfiber wash cloths, 5 bucks for 8 I think. Just spray clear water on the WS and wipe clean with the microfiber cloths. no streaks at all, cleans better and quicker than any glass cleaner I have ever used and will last through a ton of washings in the washing machine.

mark
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