Air still in break
Air still in break
This is my first post so dont be to cruel to me. I have a question on resin, after I have repaired a bulleseye, I notice a ring around where the bullseye was, still full of air. It is not that noticeable but to me it is not a job well done. Is that caused by not enough resin or am I dealing with contaminated resin? What am I doing wrong
Re: Air still in break
Hi DOC, welcome to the forum!
Could you possibly describe step by step how you aproached this repair?
It would really help us help you. This is a common problem for many, so don't worry about anybody being cruel!
Could you possibly describe step by step how you aproached this repair?
It would really help us help you. This is a common problem for many, so don't worry about anybody being cruel!
Re: Air still in break
Is the line around your bullseye black or clear? Black would indicate air that hasn't been removed. Clear usually implies too much pressure thereby affecting the surrounding laminate.
Re: Air still in break
My approach is I clean out the break, line up my bridge and injector, vaccum for about 2-3 min, pressure for about 1-2 min repeat the step once more applying heat, cure under pressure for 2 min add pit and scrape. the rest of the break looks really good except the outer ring around the edges. I am using the GM system.
Re: Air still in break
Sounds to me you are following GM's script for repairs. There are no set amount of cycles to perform as each break is different. Never use heat at the end of a repair just prior to curing as the glass will expand, and then pull away from the resin when cooled.
Re: Air still in break
DOC,
One suggestion. On the very last pressure cycle try slowly backing off stem until you start seeing resin leakage, then immediatly screw down stem slightest amount till it stops. This will provide a near perfect seal without to much force one the repair. Not sure if this is your problem but many times to much stem pressure will pinch the outer ring preventing proper vaccum or possibly cause air bleedback when removing injector.
Just one suggestion, I'm sure others can add to this.
One suggestion. On the very last pressure cycle try slowly backing off stem until you start seeing resin leakage, then immediatly screw down stem slightest amount till it stops. This will provide a near perfect seal without to much force one the repair. Not sure if this is your problem but many times to much stem pressure will pinch the outer ring preventing proper vaccum or possibly cause air bleedback when removing injector.
Just one suggestion, I'm sure others can add to this.
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Re: Air still in break
The clear ring of a bullseye can vary from perfectly normal, textbook repair, to a bad daisy form excessive pressure/time/heat. We don't know what type of clear ring you are getting.
If it's a fine line... a clear hairline... it's normal. If it's thick as a pencil lead, you have a problem.
If it's a fine line... a clear hairline... it's normal. If it's thick as a pencil lead, you have a problem.
Re: Air still in break
Just to clear up I also get a clear ring around almost all the bullseye repairs I do. I was told quite a while ago it was from applying too much pressure. No matter what I do I still get the line. I guess from the other posts I was given bad info, sorry I passed it along.
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: November 13th, 2003, 9:24 am
Re: Air still in break
I'm following you mafsu 
I would add... that the objective in repairing a bullseye is to NOT have a ring. That's the holy grail. It happens occasionally... there's a virtually invisible ring.
Strive for perfection.... but cope with reality.

I would add... that the objective in repairing a bullseye is to NOT have a ring. That's the holy grail. It happens occasionally... there's a virtually invisible ring.
Strive for perfection.... but cope with reality.
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