I received a sample of Delta's resins about a week ago. I typically do not repair long cracks. I haven't been happy with the way they look. One of my fleet customers asked me to repair a crack (about 18") in one of their low end cars, one they didn't want to spend much money on. I have done these for them in the past so they knew what to expect. I used the sample resin, since I didn't want to waste resin I had paid for. The results were incredible. I performed a second long crack repair with this resin two days ago with similar results. I will continue to use Janvil's resin on stars and bullseye repairs(I still think it turns out better on these types of repair). However as long as I continue to get the same results I wll keep some Delta magnibond on hand for long crack repairs.
www.ohnonotagain.com
Delta Resins
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Anonymous
Delta Resins
What is the process that one should take when performing long crack repairs??? I look at them and get intimidated, but it's just because I haven't done one before... Thanks in advance!
Chris~
WiseCrack Windshield Repairs
Chris~
WiseCrack Windshield Repairs
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Anonymous
Long Cracks
There are a couple of acceptable long crack repair methods. The one I use is called the capillary method. In this, first stop-drill and pop a mini-bullseye at the end of the crack, and cover this site as well as the impact site, with electrical tape to block UV rays from prematurely curing any resin that might migrate into them. Set up crack the expander(s) on the inside of the glass. Then beginning at the lower end of the crack, apply the windshield crack repair resin and curing tape as the resin is wicked into the crack and flows upward to within about an inch of the top end of the crack. Then remove the electrical tape, and with the bridge-injector assembly, fill the impact site and the min-bullseye, cure well and finish as usual. Please note: be careful not to lean on the windshield during this procedure. It important not to cause uneven stresses on the crack.
Techs using other methods will have to explain to you what they do.
Whichever method you decide is the best one for you, you should practice, practice, practice before offering crack repair to the general public. Get you a scrap windshield from a replacement shop and practice this until you are comfortable and confident that you can do the process efficiently and seemlessly.
Techs using other methods will have to explain to you what they do.
Whichever method you decide is the best one for you, you should practice, practice, practice before offering crack repair to the general public. Get you a scrap windshield from a replacement shop and practice this until you are comfortable and confident that you can do the process efficiently and seemlessly.
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Anonymous
re: long cracks
The method I use is very much like that of gold star. I hope I didn't mislead anyone to think it was easy. I've been practicing ever since I started doing repairs(7 years). One of my fleet accounts places all their glass cars in one spot. While I am waiting for a repair to cure, I practice on a vehicle they are having the windshield replaced in. I only meant to praise Delta's resins.
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Anonymous
long crack repair
I have always stop drilled and anchored first. I then migrate the crack into the anchor. You can use your crack expander/'s or go by feel to migrate it. This should surface the crack. I then would repair from the highest point of the crack down using your crack expander /'s. Sort of like a gravity feed. Although the resin is under pressure and being forced things are easier to push downhill. The rest is also like previously mentioned by Grace.
I have heard of tech's that do not stop drill cracks. I do not know how this technique preformed. I have a hard time agreeing with this method due to my background in aviation. You always stop drill cracks to relieve stress. Aluminum is more flexible than glass and less brittle so it only makes sense to stop drill glass to relieve the stress. Vehicles are always under torsional stresses which are transmitted to and through the windshield. You will have to make your own judgement call here. What ever method you choose is fine if it is working for you. Your tooling might play a deciding role in what method is best for you also. The most important factor for us all is getting the crack completely filled and cured properly for customer safety. I hope this helps.
Pay it foward,
Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com
[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]
I have heard of tech's that do not stop drill cracks. I do not know how this technique preformed. I have a hard time agreeing with this method due to my background in aviation. You always stop drill cracks to relieve stress. Aluminum is more flexible than glass and less brittle so it only makes sense to stop drill glass to relieve the stress. Vehicles are always under torsional stresses which are transmitted to and through the windshield. You will have to make your own judgement call here. What ever method you choose is fine if it is working for you. Your tooling might play a deciding role in what method is best for you also. The most important factor for us all is getting the crack completely filled and cured properly for customer safety. I hope this helps.
Pay it foward,
Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com
[email]"info@safeglasstechnologies.com"[/email][/email]
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