Wick Resin Into Starbreak

[code3wsr]

Being new to this I may be wrong but it seems to me that if you try to inject resin without removing the air first you are putting a tremendous amount of force into the break. Does that sound right? as I said i'm new to this but it seems to me that by pushing resin against the trapped air will increase to chance of a leg running out. Please help me understand.

Frank

[glassdoctor]

Actually, what you are referring to is a myth or misinformation that's purported by certain wsr companies

When you inject resin into the break, yes it pushes against the "trapped" air to a certain degree. BUT, what happens is that the air is absorbed into, or passes through the resin and is eventually removed from the break.

This can happen even without a vacuum cycle, etc... although it's acvisable to use the pressure/vacuum cycles as outlined by the manufacturer.

You can watch this actually happening sometimes with a star leg. The air will be compressed to the tip, and then it will begin to flow along the bottom of the crack back toward the impact point, all during a single pressure cycle.

You can't always see this, but sometimes it's very obvious.... perhaps a magnifying glass would let you see it more often.

[glassdoctor]

BTW, I used to wonder the same thing when I read advertisements that say the only way to do a repair is to first evacuate the air, and you can't put resin in when there is all that air in there, etc....

I used to think funny, then how the heck do I manage to do all these repairs just fine without using such techniques and equipment? Hmmmm...

Oh, if you replace some of the air in the break with water, then yes.... you will create a lot of pressure and can make a star crack out. hee hee don't do wet breaks....

[code3wsr]

Thanks for the info GlassDoctor

[Sneck]

I absolutely LOVE this forum. It is a HUGE library of experience.

I think the difference between a good repair and a great repair is knowledge and technique. For example, when I work around the house, and I have a job that requires a screw-driver, but there is not one handy, a butter-knife from the kitchen drawer will sometimes do. The screw-driver would be the tool of choice of course, but both the screw-driver and the butter-knife can achieve the same result. It boils down to what you know, and how you apply the tool to fix the problem.

Im not suggesting that using sub-standard equipment is ok for windshield repair (especially butter-knives), but I think that knowledge and technique far outweighs the equipment being used for the job.

And this forum is bringing all our knowledge and techniqe and experiences together for the common good of us all windshield repair techs, and I think that Delta Kits deserves a HUGE pat on the back for providing this forum. I know there are many others like myself that have (and will continue) to benefit from this forum.

Sneck

[GlassStarz]

When a big ugly star comes my way I often will apply vac first with a little resin along the legs it gets pulled in put your tabs over it then apply the pressure seems to work a little better and gets resin into the hard legs

[a1repair]

I agree with Jeff H. Pressure 1st then vacuum has worked well for us. But to each his own.

I hate the smell of resin, but the smell of dollar bills, mmmmmmmm.

[mafsu]

Is ther a difference between the smell of resin and the smell of dollar bills? I get them confused.

[glassdoctor]

They do kinda smell the same after a while don't they?

[cwrepair]

I just want to know which is the fastest way? presure? or vacume? which type of repair method is the fastest repair? just wondering. Thanks Chris CWREPAIR