repare-brise wrote:I use an injector and base designed specifically for cracks, contrary to Jeff's statement, it does not flex the glass, it instead slides along effortlessly on a bed of petrolium jelly, no distortion inducing flexing of the glass.
No matter what I say, there's always one guy that will say i'm wrong.
I'm sure your bed of petroleum jelly is great, but unless you don't care about your resin, i'm sure there's no petroleum jelly on the injector. In order for there to be no resin leakage, you have to have some pressure from the injector to the glass, which, as we all know, flexes the glass! It's just plain silly to deny that.
I'm sure you'll want the last word Yvan, so have at it!
Yes I will take the last word on this, thank you for your kind invitation.
First off I was not saying that you were wrong, just unfortunatly misinformed on how your competitors systems work.
The minimal pressure exerted by the injector on the glass is not enough to cause flexing, the seal barely touches the glass(it actually does not touch the glass, but rides on a thin layer of resin) and the resin is under minimal pressure. A silght breeze would cause more possible flexing than the injector on the glass. I am not dening that the injector touches the glass nor that the resin is under pressure(less than 3 psi, the seal is designed to leak at higher pressures), but I would have hoped that you were more aware of your competition before making sarcastic assumptions. I believe the users of this forum are intellegent enough to make product purchacing desisions, without having to resort to blatently putting down the competition in order to promote one's self.
My participation on this forum is pureley in the intent to share information, comradery, and to help other in any way I can. If this is contradictory to the mission of this forum, all you have to do is ask me to stop posting relevent information, and I will be happy to accomodate you.
What we do to get the last 1"-2" inches to fill of a running crack is. To drill @ the end of the crack, then snap a small bullseye with your probe. Then put some resin in the bullseye that 's been created and lightly prob it to fill. Then using a thin to medium viscosity resin, put resin over the last two inches or so that won't fill, along with a curing sheet, get inside the vehicle and LIGHTLY push on the crack with your probe. The air will be displaced and the "stubborn part" of the crack will fill usually with no problem at all.
Running cracks are many times easier to fill then a glass of beer Or should I say, equally as easy.
Am I right Jeff & Yvan?
[FONT=Arial]A-1[/FONT] Windshield & Vinyl Repair
We get the monkey off your back! Since 1984
I agree there does need to be some pressure on the injector to create a seal but as the injector is moved the pressure is released from that spot.
There is lots of diffrent ways to do cracks and each crack is diffrent from the last, everyone doing cracks successfully is doing it right for them.
Glassstarz if the kit manufacturers have massive r & d budgets how come most of them do not sell dry out kits with their systems, why have we not got a fail proof dry out system yet. I have spoken to 3 kit suppliers this week who state that windscreen chips do not suffer from moisture in them and therefore it is not necessary to dry them out.
33,000 + screen repairs over 18 years and still learning.
Over
Please send me an e-mail message concerning equipment and resin use. I prefer not to mention my equipment manufateror on this forum(by respect to Delta). As you stated there is no right or only way to do anything, the important thing is to do it in a way that you get good results and you are comfortable doing it. As far as temperature goes, yes hotter is easier, in the cold months I have tha car running with the defroster on high, this gets the WS quite warm, and the resin flowing. When the mercury is in single digits I invite the customers to my facility to repair cracks if they don't have a garage, it's just easier on the technician. the thick resin that you have requires injection to function properly, simple capilliary action may not be sufficiant to completely fill the crack ot the pvb layer.
Screenman
Thanks for the kind words, as for a dedicated dry out system, I believe you could all teach us a lesson on that, your enviromental conditions are very conducive to moisture in WS chips and cracks, and I am sure you have developed a better way of removing moisture than any kit company ever has.
Merci
And no offense taken, opinions are personal, and concequently are never false. I rather know where I stand with someone, then be led on. The truth is always good even though it may not always be pleasent.
I once did a 6" crack that wouldn't flow at all. I almost gave up until I applied pressure on the outside instead of the inside. I was amazed at how fast it started flowing.
Repare-Brise has said in previous posts that he uses Glass Mechanix equipment.
Screenman,
All the top manufacturers over here have ways of evacuating moisture, some good, some bad.
screenman wrote:I have spoken to 3 kit suppliers this week who state that windscreen chips do not suffer from moisture in them and therefore it is not necessary to dry them out.
Tell them to come up to Oregon, and i'll show them moisture!
Windshield chips without mositure. That would be a dream! Those kits suppliers are incorrect. Have them come to Vermont, and I, along with Jeff H., will show them moisture. It is our 2nd worse enemy. The darn cold is 1st.
That is one of the MAJOR problems with many up here, who attempt to do WSR. Due to their untrained eye, they are unable to identify wether the stone damage has moisture, is completely dry and/or is contaminated. Three problems that are critically essential, and need to be rectified in achieving quality windshield repair.
Water/moisture just doesn't mix with resin.
more of my 2 cents.
[FONT=Arial]A-1[/FONT] Windshield & Vinyl Repair
We get the monkey off your back! Since 1984
Jeff
I was only talking to UK kit suppliers so I cannot comment on the US ones. Can you please tell me which method Delta uses if it is the Drystar then your UK supplier does not rate it and tends to use my method I think.
A1
I think the fact that we can remove some or all of the moisture puts us in front of the opposition namely the replacement guys at least over here I do not know of any that dry out.
I would and always have stated that moisture is the repair techs biggest enemy against quality screen repair.
33,000 + screen repairs over 18 years and still learning.
Over
Or should I say, equally as easy.