Long Crack Question

[screenman]

And to add to my last post the only dry break I have had in the past 6 months was one I made on a practise glass for one of my trainees.

[Delta Kits]

Delta Kits method to remove moisture is through a moisture evaporator like this:
http://www.deltakits.com/dki-catalog/ds100.html

[GlassStarz]

English water is thicker so it doesnt flow into the break yup thats it

[CPR]

Allright, who needs a diper change ???

[ChipMaster]

HI me (new guy) again,


I whole heartly agree with Jeff i personally have had most of my crack repairs turn out great by just using gravity. I have learned many different styles of WS repair and to be honest, with cracks, old school is the best. let the resin flow starting on either end and DIRECTLY behind it do the same with the pit resin so not to get air bubblesand your good to go. the tuff part is scraping:)

[Bois]

I heard someone on this tread say to work down on verticle cracks. Training videos (like Delta's) show working up. I suppose it's technique and preference. But, what about horizontal cracks? Are there any special technique that works best for you that do LC? Does capillary action work as well on horizontal or is an injector needed?

Dale...

[a1repair]

Greetings again Screenman,

A1
I think the fact that we can remove some or all of the moisture puts us in front of the opposition namely the replacement guys at least over here I do not know of any that dry out.

I would and always have stated that moisture is the repair techs biggest enemy against quality screen repair.

You are right on the money, IMO with that!

Greetings too Blind Squirrell,

Another way we use in removing "puddles" of water from stone damage is, the use of a 110v heat gun, looks like a hairdyer. We slowly warm the windshield on, and around the stone damage. We heat it to the point of what feels like a small burning sensation on the palm of our hand. Then, (and this is critical) allow the windshield to cool back down to about 70 degree. (If you dont, the stone damage wil not fill properly) Then examine it again for water/moisture. If it is apparent that there is still moisture, repeat the process. It can be time consuming in properly removing the water, but it's worth the effort.
To train your eye in identifying water/moisture in stone damage. You could have an old windshield, create stone chips in the windshield, then pour water over the damage, the dry it out, then repeat the process. That will accustom your eyes and in time, will be able to tell the difference of wet verses dry. It's critical in doing quality repairs

[screenman]

A1

I train all my students on wet repairs only that gets them into the habit of drying out, all I do is spray the practise screen with plenty of water after we have made the breaks.

The reason why I personaly prefer a small butane torch is speed and lack of any need for power also I think that that because you can warm a smaller area the surrounding cool glass will take it back down to a lower temperature as you describe quicker, however we used to use hot air dryers ourselves along with spot lamps set up close behind the screen up to about 1989 when we changed to the butane method.

But once again everybody if it works for you then thats fine.

[a1repair]

Screenman,

Yes we too have made use of the mini-butane torches. Very handy. The only time they scare me in using them, is in extreme cold. They are most definitely a must, for any WSR toolbox.