Do you wipe resin off break before putting pit resin on???

[JT2]

Hi there, i'm new to this site and have a quick question. Have been practicing my repair skills on a used windshield and was wondering what many of you do right after repairing and when you remove the bridge assembly, do you wipe off the excess resin before putting pit resin and curing it with the UV light OR do you just go ahead and put some pit resin on top of the chip while the resin is still on top and cure it??

Other question is that if you do wipe off the excess resin prior to putting pit resin does that contaminate the chip??

BTW i'm using Delta Kits Double Bridge system and all Delta Kits resin.

Thanks for all the info, greatly appreciated.

[glassfixerCO]

JT2,
In my case I usually scape the area with a razor (holding the razor vertically--just like when scraping-off cured pit resin). This removes hardened resin which sometimes builds-up in the form of a partial ring around the injector, which would make it hard for the curing film to lay flat over the pit resin if I left it there. Then I put a drop of pit filler resin about 1/4 inch above the pit and let it run into the pit, then fold a nice flat piece of film over it and cure (the last 2 steps help prevent air bubbles from becoming trapped in the pit fill).

[glassfixerCO]

Oh, in answer to your other question. No it doesn't contaminate the chip (at least not in any of my experiences. I use GM equipment and cure under pressure, maybe some other equip. manuf.'s would disagree.)

[Mr Bill]

I learned to put the pit resin on top of the Magnabond WSR resin. Then I wipe around the cure tab if necessary.
Works fine for me.

[JT2]

Great thanks for the info! Yes i've watched the Delta Kits training DVD over and over and they do not specify whether to wipe off the excess resin or just go ahead and put a drop of pit resin and start curing. In the DVD when the guy is fixing the chip it seems that he does wipe off excess resin as it looks to be free of anything.

Thanks.

[GlassStarz]

I wipe with a paper towel gently clearing pit then apply PF

[Sneck]

Sharing a tip - tools required: 1 sewing needle.
Sometimes this happens to me...
After I apply the pit resin - the pit resin does not always go down inside the drill hole - even after "rolling" the cure film over the pit. Sometimes the pit resin will be pushed everywhere by the curing film except where I really want it to go - (down inside the drill hole). It sometimes needs a little coaxing... so I will "poke" the pit resin into the drill hole with a needle to make sure that there is no air in the drill hole. Then apply cure-film as usual. This procedure is something I just tried one day, and it works great. It ensures that the pit (or drill hole) has pit resin where the pit resin needs to be.

Sneck

[JT2]

Great thanks for all the input everyone, much appreciated. Do you always use Pit Resin to cure even if there is no glass missing from the break?? I know some technicians cure without pit resin if there is no glass bits missing from the damage.

Thanks

[Sneck]

Hi JT2
I always use pit resin. There has got to be an entrance for the regular repair resin to reach the body of the break. Some breaks have to be drilled, and some don't. If the resin that you inject into the break has a way of getting to the break in the first place, then obviously there has got to be an opening on the surface of the glass. I always use pit filler to seal up the opening, and then I polish it.

Sneck

[Repair1]

I don