Do you wipe resin off break before putting pit resin on???

[JT2]

So are there any negative effects if you just: remove bridge assembly from break and just by placing curing tab over the runny resin and curing it with the UV light as opposed to placing a drop of Pit Resin Filler then placing the curing tab over it without pressing it down and curing with the UV??

Also what do you guys/girls use most often when curing, the hard plastic tabs or the tape?? Any benefits from using one or another??

Thanks for the info:)

[GlassStarz]

The pit resin is thicker and more durable (according to most mfgs)

[Bois]

First, it doesn't sound like you received hands on training from Delta Kits. Your question about wiping off the area before applying pit filler would have been answered. I just attended Delta's training in San Antonio and had my hand slapped because I was about to wipe the area before applying PF (something I normally don't do). Wiping may absorb some of the resin in the break and possibly leave lint (depending on what you're using to wipe the area). Personal training is a must in my mind.

I always use PF. It prevents air from getting into the break (air can seep under the curing tape/tab) and locks in the resin.

Dale...

[maxryde]

We don't wipe any repair before applying pit filler. The way we do it is to place a towel below the damage then remove your bridge, the towel catches the excess resin that is running down the shield. Then apply pit filler directly above the pit and allow it to run onto the damage checking that the impact or drill site is completely filled with pit filler, sometimes the needle is required to remove trapped air in the surface of the break then apply tape or mylar and cure.Wiping the chip is not a good idea as it can introduce foreign material or absorb resign that is deeper in the damaged area than you would want to remove. It is my belief that the resin will help bond the edge of the seam where the glass meets pit filler also so NO don't wipe directly over the repair. As far as square or tape, tape is needed at times when the damage is large enough but we use the mylar squares as much as possable. Scott

[JT2]

No I have not attended Delta Kits Training and I know its a good idea and will consider it, for you who have attended training did you find that there was enough hands on training that you left feeling extremely confident in your repairs???

Also prior to repairing what are you using to clean the damaged area?? Glass cleaner and paper towel? Reason being is it contaiminating the damage more when you go through this step (more moisutre and lint) I usually clean first then scribe and drill if neccessary then use a shot of compressed air from the can then heat to evaporate.

Thanks again:)

[Bois]

As far as Delta training - you get a minimum of 10 repairs (more if time allows) and, most important, you receive personal attention and critique on each repair.

For cleaning the break area - I wipe the area around the break to remove dust, etc. so that the bridge will adhere. I do not wipe or put anything on the break. Use the probe to clean/clear out the pit.

Dale...

[Mr Bill]

If you take the class,all of your questions will be answered. Plus afterward as a Delta certified Tech you can call them for free technical support.

[Delta Kits]

Since you're using our equipment:

I recommend removing the bridge, leaving the resin and immediately adding pit resin, tab, and uv light. As others have said, if you wipe it clean, it can actually remove some resin from that pit.

Realistically though, I can't think of a reason that someone WOULD wipe it first. Excluding the people who cure twice I mean (pressure curing).

[outlook]

Is it just me or does the thicker resin seem to cure faster? I never wipe the pit because it seems to wick some of the resin out and sometimes that little black spec will appear. The tape works best for me when I have a large pit with glass missing so I can build a little mound up. I think the tabs are fine for the smaller pits or stars.

[mafsu]

The way I was originally taught was to wipe the pit before applying the pit resin. Like most other things I was originally taught it was bad advice. When I first started out my pit resin would shrink or fall out after about six months. When I started using better resins that took care of the shrinkage. When I stopped wiping out the pits that took care of them falling out. You also get a better looking pit because the thicker resin won't fill in the rough edges along the edges of the pit as well as the thinner resin will.