Do you wipe resin off break before putting pit resin on???

[Almost-New WSR]

I go with the no-wipe. I used to wipe it off, but have found that it may have been helping some of the 'black' to return upon curing. Guess it may have something to do with partial removal of the resin? Who knows, but they look 10 times better by using the pf right over top. No harm. No foul.

You also said " I have not attended Delta Kits Training and I know its a good idea and will consider it, for you who have attended training did you find that there was enough hands on training that you left feeling extremely confident in your repairs???"

My business partner and I 'considered' attending for some time and then did in January. Not to inflate any ego's or anything (jeff and matt?!?!LOL) but it was the BEST decision we made since deciding to get into the business. Plain and simple: you learn how to use the tools from those who manufactured them. Who better to learn from. As for Confidence levels upon return...absolutely. We know now that no-one else around here can do the same quality repairs that we turn out. The "boot-camp" training allows for plenty of hands-on, feedback and information on the how-to's---especially if you are already doing repairs! It brings you back to basics and you will see the difference!

Best of luck, JT2!!

Dave

[CPR]

I thought after pressure curing it was time to put on the band aid..............

[repare-brise]

CPR

I pressure cure as well, this eliminates the "resin dropping out" that others have mentioned(If you are interested in the pro,s and con's of pressure curing there are endless discusions in previous threads), also before removing the injector from the glass I put it under suction, the excess resin stays in the injector when removing it from the WS . Pressure curing takes a few miniuts longer but can reduce possible problems, but it is best to follow the recomendations that came with your kit. As far as wiping I refrain form this practice, it is contamination waiting to happen. If you have excess resin a pass with a razor blade will lift away the excess resin, without introducing lint inot the break, or absorbing resin from the pit. I always follow up with pit filler resin and polish (around here most WS replacement techs called upon to do WS repair don't use pit filler, a bonus for me).

Merci

[StarQuest]

I also prefer swiping a razor blade to remove excess resin then cap, tab and cure with pit fill. Not sure I understand why Delta doesn't wipe or swipe excess before adding pit resin but I'm sure Jeff can explain;)

[JT2]

Wow thanks to everyone for the great wealth of info! Greatly appreciated and I'm sure the training is great and they can answer all the questions and also to eliminate any bad habits one might have.

So I guess pressure curing is a touchy subject as some techs swear by it and some do not even recommend it.

[Jeremiahswindshieldrepair]

I use a roll of tape instead of tabs and I don't wipe because of all the reasons above AND it helps to hold my tape on there while I open my pit resin bottle. I throw the tape on as soon as I take my bridge off so it doesn't get any junk in there before i cover it. To help stop bubbles in the resin I put the pit resin just above the entry point I am filling and let it drain down into the hole .. works great 90%+ of the time.

[glassfixerCO]

This is slightly off-subject, but since we're talking about pit-filling and final curing I thought I'd mention it. If you want to save money on curing tabs simply buy some clear plastic report covers (they're usually 10 for $1 at Big Lots) and cut them into strips and squares, they seem to work just as well.

[glassfixerCO]

I should add however, that even though this cheap alternative to curing film seems to work well most of the time, sometimes--especially on crack repairs--the curing tab/strip will stick to the resin a little TOO MUCH and is hard to peel off (this might be from u.v. curing longer than necessary--who knows?) so maybe cheaper isn't ALWAYS better. :eusa_thin

[Jeremiahswindshieldrepair]

I tear of a very small strip of the curing tape from Delta and a roll lasts me almost 2 years ... that seems cheap enough for me really

[glassdoctor]

Poly sheet protectors make excellent cure tabs...and they can be very inexpensive *cough* cheap *cough* even compared to a roll of tape. You get about 200 tabs per sheet and the sheets can cost as little as $.20 each. That's 1000 tabs for a buck, with a little patience to cut them up...

I had to mention this because I recently bought a 50 pack so I have 10,000 tabs if I want, hee hee. Guess I'm all set for a while....

Oh... and I definitely wipe my hole, but I guess that puts me in the minority on this forum.

Sorry Jeff, I couldn't help it...