What a finished Repair Should look like!

[mafsu]

Flexing is a part of probe filling, however they are not the same thing.

[Mr. Chips]

I always flex on the outside of the vehicle.

Okay, not that I'm sayin' you fellers are wrong, but assuming you are repairing exterior damage, flexing from the outside just isn't logical. Seems to me it would close things up more, rather than open 'em. The boys at Delta recommend flexing from inside for an exterior repair. To me, this makes more sense as it opens the damage, better enabling the resin to flow. You flex from the outside, aren't you just turning off hose so to speak?

[StarQuest]

Mr Chips,

I find it difficult to believe Jeff at Delta trains everybody to flex stars from inside of vehicle. Are you sure about that info? I know I've ran into situations where inside flexing is neccessary to fill a star leg but very seldom. Could you be talking about inside flexing methods commonly used for filling longer surface cracks?

[sunshine wr]

Flexing stars on the inside does help them to fill somewhat, BUT to open a sub-surface crack flex the outside, open a surface crack flex inside. I still think we're off subject here!

[Sneck]

May be off subject, but this is good stuff!

Sneck

[Delta Kits]

The boys at Delta recommend flexing from inside for an exterior repair

We recommend flexing when needed. We start flexing on the exterior, because all you're really trying to do is move that crack slightly, not hold it open. You can do the same thing from the interior, but it takes longer, and may not work quite as well.

[GlassStarz]

Jeff
you dont find starting at the interior and dragging the awl to the end runs the resin to the point in most cases and in doing so leaves less air spots? (sparkles)

[Sneck]

As I am thinking about this flexing business... (for star breaks) It seems logical that flexing from the inside would open the crack allowing for better resin flow, BUT... you have to be pushing against the inner layer of glass and the plastic interlayer before you are even beginning to affect the outer glass. In other words, there is a lot of physical resistance with flexing from inside the vehicle.

Flexing from the outside may be more beneficial because you are only trying to affect the outer layer of glass. This would provide a more direct targeting of the actual glass you are trying to flex.

Again, flexing from the inside may NOT be as beneficial because you are trying to flex the outer layer of glass that is of course cushioned by the plastic inner-layer and the inner glass. So a repair tech would have to certainly push harder to get the same result as exterior flexing. And when pushing harder on the glass then necessary you could run the risk of a crack-run.

Am I understanding the flexing business correctly? Flexing from the outside is best? In the past I have always flexed from inside and was never 100 percent satisfied with my star break repairs. Flexing from the outside might be the trick.

Sneck

[Mr. Chips]

Mr Chips,

I find it difficult to believe Jeff at Delta trains everybody to flex stars from inside of vehicle. Are you sure about that info? I know I've ran into situations where inside flexing is neccessary to fill a star leg but very seldom. Could you be talking about inside flexing methods commonly used for filling longer surface cracks?

StarQuest, perhaps I have misunderstood. I attended the San Antonio training and I distinctly recall Matt instructing to flex from inside. At the time, we were discussing repairs on both star breaks and bulls, NOT cracks. Now I see that Jeff is indicating an initial exterior flex to obtain "slight" movement.

Sneck, you suggested that interior flexing would require considerably more muscle to get the glass to move. I agree with you, and so does Matt. Again, at the training session, I do recall him saying that a fair amount of pressure would need to be exerted.

So now I'm thoroughly confused. When to flex, and where to flex. Matt says interior, Jeff says exterior, and Brian says he doesn't flex at all.

I guess we're still off topic for this thread. I do know one thing though, all this talk about flexing really works up an appetite!

[repare-brise]

On a star break(not a surface crack) I flex from the outside, here's why. If you were to look at a cross section of the break(star) the legs are generally open to the plastic but not the surface. flexing from the outside will keep the surface intact(usualy) and open up the crack at the plastic(where you want it too open). Flexing fron the inside may actually close it up since the glass is intact at the surface it acts like a hinge, effectivly closing the break at the plastic when force is exerted from the inside. Flexing to fill a leg that will not fill should be done as close to the injector as possible. Since the other legs of the star filled it is safe to assume that the leg in question is not connected to the center of the break, BY flexing close to the injector you are actually opening(cracking further) the leg to the center of the break, thus alowing resin to flow into the offending leg. If you need to flex most of your breaks(more than 15-20%) consider trying other resins that may be better suited to your enviroment. With a good star resin you should not require flexing(nor heat) to completely fill the legs of a star.

Merci