What a finished Repair Should look like!

[mafsu]

repair-brise the hinge analogy is a good one. Explains exactly how flexing a starleg will work. That degree in cabinetmaking paying off again. :biggrin: I probably agree with you about the resin, but I like to flex to hurry the process along. Espescially on fleet accounts where I have a lot of repairs to do and a small amount of time to get them done.

[screenman]

Yvan that last post of yours was spot on. I could not have described the methods better and english is my first language.

I teach all my students to think and look hard at the breaks to understand what is happening when they flex etc. I personaly use flexing a lot but that is just my way.

Come on everybody think about what and why you are doing something. I agree you should follow your training if it was good training but carry on learning and trying your own new techniques and if they work let us all know.

[repare-brise]

Thanks guys

Mafsu

When you say you use flexing to hurry the repair along, how much of a time savings does it give you? My injector stays on the glass between 3-6 mins generally(there are a few 10 min fills but they are special cases) with the norm being 4 mins. This is just enough time for me to get the next one set up and sucking(I start with suction), and polish the previous repairs pit.

Merci

[mafsu]

Yvan I have tried a boatload of different resins and none of them will fill 80% of starbreaks completely without any flexing in 3-6 minutes. If you know of some resin that will do this e-mail me with the name please.

[glassfixerCO]

3-6 minutes? Using G.M. equipment? I guess I need to do a few thousand more repairs before I get that good. Cliff

[repare-brise]

Cliff, the major factor is heat and resin density. Are you using GM resins, they are designed to work best with GM equipment? BTW the times listed are are simply the time that the injector is on the glass, cleaning, curing , pit filling, polishing and invoicing are not included in these times. As for temp the warmer the WS the faster the fill, if the WS is not warm enough I use the defroster to help out, the mini torch is only used to remove moisture. One of your problems may well be moisture, too much humidity in the break will significantly reduce fill speed.

Mafsu

You have mail

Merci

[glassfixerCO]

Yvon,
I might also just be leaving the injector in each cycle too long trying to be ABSOLUTELY SURE the air bubbles are out and the resin has reached all the parts etc. I do remember a while back (when I had a tent-style set-up) trying increase my speed so that I could honestly advertise 15-MINUTE repairs, but even then I think the injector was usually on the damaged area for at least 8-10 minutes. You may have a point about removing moisture first, I recently did a job in a mountain town here in Colorado after a snowstorm and wanted to make sure the moisture was fully removed so I put an empty injector on the chip and used the vacuum cycle and a little heat (I might have gotten this idea from one of your posts), when I replaced the injector with one w. resin and did the usual vac/press. cycles the chip became virtually INVISIBLE. I might start doing this on ALL my repairs just as a form of MOISTURE INSURANCE. BTW, I haven't used GM resins in a while--they're kind of pricey (I've been using Janvil resins recently)--although the GM injectors are nice. Thanks for the advice.
Cliff

[a1repair]

Flexing is a part of probe filling, however they are not the same thing.

Same diifference isn't it?

[mafsu]

No, the flexing that is being spoken of is done with an injector in place. Probe filling is done without an injector or before an injector is introduced to the damaged area.

[a1repair]

But the result are all the same.