help advice needed!!!

[texas jim]

Laugh if you must but how do you keep from loosing your resin when it,s in the injector? 1st i fill the injector with the star fill or thin resin. then i top the piston till i see the resin come to the top of the seal. then i slightly back the resin down to it,s half way on the seal. now this has worked a few times but for most leaks out on to the windsheild the second i turn the injector! watched the video and so were am i going wrong on my method??? oh need a laugh!!? i pulled the piston all the way out and then set seven drops of resin into the injector, now i knew it would produce pressure when i reinstalled the piston but let me tell you when that seal gives way on the windsheild boy does the resin fly,,,! thanks for any help you may offer. jim:eusa_wall

[maxryde]

Well Jim, we could be more helpful when we know exactly what type of system you are using. I saw a post where you spoke of Delta's and Glass Mechanix, while they both will retain resin when inverted and may be turned back upright and retain resin the delta system I know was not designed to do this.
There are systems that you preload and times when it is beneficial. If the plunger is in the seal the void filled with resin should have enough surface tension to retain the resin unless their is something breaking the surface tension of the resin. If the injector is at an angle it will reduce the surface tension and leak out too. Is that what you mean? Are you working on glass that is at an extreme angle causing it to run out? I believe that is your problem, OR you could be leaving a bubble on the bottom and when the injector is returned to the upright position it causes the disruption of surface tension and voila wet mess! Is that what it is?

Luck, Scott

[texas jim]

well yes the angle is at say 45 dg,s. and im using glass mech, you know i was also thinking that the heat in our area is at 92 dg. and being inside the garage it may cause the resin to be a bit more likely to run.? as you guessed i am green at all of this. lotts yet to learn. thanks for your input. jim

[maxryde]

I'm sure the angle is only part of the deal heat is an issue for sure. Try applying a mylar over the seal till the thing is flipped and the vacuum causes the surface tension to hold the resin in. Check the seal to be sure it is good too.

[texas jim]

you mean to leave the mylar film in place then pull it out as the injector meets the windshield?

[maxryde]

Jim I meant to use the mylar during the turn. After it is upright the resin should stay in the barrel if the seal is working correctly and the plunger stay's in the seal then the resin should stay in too unless it is very thin. The vacuum created will not allow the resin to escape. It will fall out only when the surface tension becomes unstable. Example, tilt the injector and at some point it looses stability and the resin will drain out. You can demonstrate with a glass of water and a piece of heavy paper. Fill the glass 1/4 full of water and place the paper on top. Now cover with a flat surface, a book or something. Invert the group of objects. Now remove the book. The water is in a vacuum state and the paper would not support the water but it does because it completes the vacuum disallowing the waters exit from the glass. Now tilt the glass and you will find at some point the stability is lost and the water is allowed to flow out of the glass. Vacuum has been reduced beyond the point where it supports the weight of the water, or resin in the case of the injector. I hope this will help as I am not the best of illustrators.

[Sneck]

Texas Jim, I think its the thin resin because I had the same problem.

I too have used the Glass Mechanix system in the past but I much prefer the Delta Kits system.

Anyway, I have experienced your exact problem with the exact same equipment. Maxride is absolutely correct about vacuum. But when I experienced my problem of the resin running out of the injector before I had a chance to screw the injector body into the GM bridge, I was using thin resin. I felt that there were one of two possibilities...

1 - The thin resin was just too thin to be held by the vacuum, and it simply ran out as soon as I turned the injector assy over.

2 - The o-rings on the piston needed replaced, even though I only used the GM SYSTEM once or twice before.

In my case, I replaced with new o-rings, lubed them with resin (per the training video), and tried again. This did not fix the problem. It was not long after that - that I had obtained my delta equipment and found it much simpler and easier for me to work with. There are lots of great wsr techs that use GM exclusively, so I guess I cannot bash GM too much, but for me, switching to Delta was the smartest move I made.

I could give lots and lots of reasons why I switched to Delta, but I would be getting off subject here, and perhaps I should save it for a different post.

Again, I think the problem is the thin resin. I'll bet if you use a thicker resin then the vacuum will hold just as it shows in the GM training video. Thin resin seems to just run out.

[John62]

Hi, I had the same problem with the GM Injector and thin resins. Iwent to GlassMechanix, Las Vegas, last year for a factory training and I was told that you have to use dry seals only (I mean the white outer seal)
That is awkward, esp. in fleet works where one after another repair is to be done.
One needs many seals then, right?

We have used Glas.Weld injectors and there nice and easy to handle/maintain.
No experience with Delta -not yet, we'll order one soon.

[shermfiddle]

From time to time I too have had a few problems applying the GM injector to the repair however, now I put a piece of scotch tape over the end of the white seal and lower it down to the glass then remove the tape before tighting the injector down. Its easy and I never spill a drop of resin regardless of the viscosity. Works for me.

"I still love this business"

[CPR]

maxryde, I love the mylar trick, thanks.