How to make the job easier - tips & tricks

[glassdude]

Why not just take the tires off too and anything else that is absolutely unnecessary?

That's OK. I'll keep installing windshields the correct way and you keep installing them you way.
-Jeff

[LisaAZ]

Seems to me, you all have a choice tocould take tips / tricks / advise works for you, and leave the rest. These forums are meant to share information, to help installers better handle the many challenges that are encountered in this industry. Seems to me you should look at one another as allies, despite your differentiating methods. Just my opinion.

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Thank you, Glasssgod. I guess I should keep responding as this was my thread. (Which by the way was to discuss methods of taking the load of the job, not arguing about simple modifications to the process.)

Why not take of the tires too?

Do you all remove headliners and A-pillar mouldings on every windshield you do too?

What about situations where the wiper arms are so corroded into place that removing them is impossible without breaking something? If you can't get the wipers off on a DW1168 then the cowl isn't coming off either. How do you think I figured this out?

Go ahead and take off unneccessary items if you want to. I'm not paying you. But I might be competing with you. I'm fast and I'm good, and I'm competitively priced. Good luck if you need 40 minutes to do a 20 minute job.
(How many breaks do you take in a day???)

Maybe some of you should consider getting up to date with your equipment so you don't think that a windshield as simple as an 1168 is actually difficult.

15 windshields a day is a breeze when you have the stuff it takes to do it. And keep in mind some of these 15-20 windshields are DL4746 and other simple tasks.

Yeah... I do take "shortcuts". But not safety wise. I full cut beads. I use the appropriate primers. I put in a proper amount of the correct urethane. I do everything you do and then some. If I find something harmless that saves me time, I take it. But then again I'm in the business to succeed. And clearly I'm doing THAT too.

[bill4117]

i have to agree with butyl on this one. i do dw1168's around 4 to 8 a week and i never remove the cowl. the reason being is that the cowl sits so much higher then the pinchweld than even after you shoot the bead you still have enough room to put a bologna sandwich between the adhesive and cowl. auto glass replacement is a tough business and if you can find a few ways to cut time go for it as long as when the next guy removes that shield he cant tell that bead isnt factory your fine.

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Another time saver I have found is on the DW1341. (New body style, full size Chevy trucks)

Anybody that has done one of these has run accross the bottom torx head screw that holds on the side mouldings. I have come into the habit of not removing that screw. Instead, I simply use the screw as a pivot, and flip the moulding down to the floor.

It's not a huge time saver, but if you consider what it takes to remove these screws with an "extra stubby" screwdriver, or a torx socket on a small ratchet, multiplied by how many of these I do in a year.... You get the point.

The only thing to remember is that when these mouldings are flipped down you CAN NOT close the doors on the truck or the mouldings will be damaged.


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Also, here's a pointless discussion for you, regarding the DW1217.

Do you V-cut the tabs on the bottom (so you can use the screw partially installed as a guide), or do you draw lines on the vehicle so you know where to put the screw? Maybe somebody here has a third method....


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A tip for all of you that have express/extractors....

On late 90's-2000's Honda products with cowling clips that would rather break instead of unclipping.... Remove the windshield first. This gives you enough room for your clip tool to access the bottom of the clips, enabling you to pop them loose without breaking them.

Not that it really matters, the plastic inserts that they push in to are usually on flimsy metal tabs that bend with less force than it takes to reclip the clip. I have found a solution to this but I want to hear what some of you have figured out.



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I have noticed on some windshields, the access to cut the urethane is inhibited by the headliner. In many cases, a power tool must be used to cut "under" the urethane in order to save the moulding, but the headliner is actually touching the windshield, or at least in the way. I call this an "interference issue".

Rather than dropping or removing the headliner, I will simply put something (often a roll of masking tape) between the headliner and the roof. This will, in many cases, open up enough space for the power tool.

Care must be taken to avoid damaging the headliner.


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And just to stir some more s*** into the compost pile...

Rear windows/sliders on 1988-1998 chev/GMC full size pickups.

The interior panels have melted plastic points holding the metal clips. These will break easier than the metal clips will release. Even successfully removing one clip will wreck the next one...

A PROPERLY HANDLED express/extractor will remove the glass part without damage to the pincheld, the paint, the glass, or the interior parts (I NEVER remove the interior parts). You will have to cut the bottom corners with an olfa knife.

Anybody with suggestions on how to remove these interior panels without wrecking them is more than welcome to post...

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Thanks bill.

And if you do 4-8 dw1168's in a week you probably do as much, if not more work than I do. Nice to meet somebody else on here that puts in the effort.

Oh yeah... and kudos to you for spelling "bologna" properly.

[bill4117]

lol.. i average between 7 and 12 shields a day. i will tell you on the dw1341's one thing i often do is leave the cowl on... the way i do this is to take out the torx screw from each corner and loosen the plastic push pin in the middle. next after the glass is out i prop up the cowl with one razor blade placed vertically under each corner (i usually remove the cardboard from the blade first which prevents sliding) then i place one vertically under the center of the cowl in front of the push pin. i also pull out the rubber filler strip from the edge of the cowl and replace it after since it just snaps in place. this method leaves a surprising amount of room. i will say that it is best to use this technique when you are setting with 2 people since that allows you both to hold the shield over the bead until your over the stops. i have never had a 1341 come back and the ones that got broke again and i removed had no signs of smeared adhesive like you'll find when guys "stuff" under the cowl.

also when setting 1341's it's always a good idea to put a piece of tape over the vin notch and another piece vertically from the first piece. the vin piece insures a clean vin notch , the second piece insures removal of the first piece after installation.

[bill4117]

also on those chevy back sliders (if you don't already) try shooting the adhesive on the slider using the nipple that comes on the urethane tip to guide along the outside edge, start at the center bottom and walk around the slider. never a leak and no ooze into the interior.

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

I've never tried using razor blades to prop up a 1341 cowl, but there have been times when the wiper arms wouldn't come off. (yes, I have a wiper arm puller).

What I do then is keep the hood open and tape the wipers up to it. Then I take urethane tips (some sika tips are about 3/4" in diameter) and wedge them under the ends of the cowl, under the flat part of the cowl under the hood.

If you don't have the large urethane tips, try screwdriver handles.

I don't recommend this if you have to set the glass by yourself, but a competent helper can easily clear the urethane without pushing it out of place.

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

also on those chevy back sliders (if you don't already) try shooting the adhesive on the slider using the nipple that comes on the urethane tip to guide along the outside edge, start at the center bottom and walk around the slider. never a leak and no ooze into the interior.

By "nipple" I assume you mean the plastic tab that comes on some v-cut urethane tips, to guide the tip along the edge of the glass/part.

I very rarely put the urethane on the part, I put it on the vehicle. Too many parts need the glue somewhere else other than right on the edge. But on those sliders that would work excellent.... I'm going to try it next time. Thanks for the tip.