Headlight Restoration
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CPR
Re: Headlight Restoration
Try using automotive clearcoat when done polishing, it takes some practice but well worth the results. I was using sherwin williams cc 648 in a rattle can, you can experement with different brands and use what you like.
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crkdupinga
Re: Headlight Restoration
glassdoctor,
I did use topcoats on all occasions. I first used Bright Solutions’ Shine Restorer / Protector and it was unsuccessful. I have also had issues with it hazing / clouding while drying in temperatures under about 60F.
I tried Plexis, which is a spray that cleans and conditions acrylics. It works great on my motorcycle helmet and windshield, but not on these headlights.
I also tried a product called Nu Finish. It’s a “once a year” car polish for acrylic finishes. It has worked on occasions in the past, but not this time.
If I remember correctly, Dave at IPS said that their sealer product bonds to the surface and helps strengthen where material was removed from the light cover during the cleaning and polishing process. That was one of the things that impressed me. We'll see how it holds up.
I liked Yvan’s flame-thrower idea, but it would seem to be a little challenging to process the lights in the vehicle. Besides, I’m not supposed to have sharp or flammable things. SMMMOKIN’!!!
I did use topcoats on all occasions. I first used Bright Solutions’ Shine Restorer / Protector and it was unsuccessful. I have also had issues with it hazing / clouding while drying in temperatures under about 60F.
I tried Plexis, which is a spray that cleans and conditions acrylics. It works great on my motorcycle helmet and windshield, but not on these headlights.
I also tried a product called Nu Finish. It’s a “once a year” car polish for acrylic finishes. It has worked on occasions in the past, but not this time.
If I remember correctly, Dave at IPS said that their sealer product bonds to the surface and helps strengthen where material was removed from the light cover during the cleaning and polishing process. That was one of the things that impressed me. We'll see how it holds up.
I liked Yvan’s flame-thrower idea, but it would seem to be a little challenging to process the lights in the vehicle. Besides, I’m not supposed to have sharp or flammable things. SMMMOKIN’!!!
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repare-brise
Re: Headlight Restoration
CPR
Yes clear-coat is a very viable alternative, but one must chose a clear that will resist extreme temperature changes(-30 to +200 with some lights) and chipping. I find that clearing the lights gives a great finish, drys fast when you turn the lights on, but will chip or flake on some lights.
CRKDUPINGA
Yes the lights are better "flamed" out of the car, or else you may flame more than you bargined for. As for the final coating, the wax must state "polymere" on the label, contain no abrasives, and preferably no petrolium products(negative reaction with the plastic). The product I found that works well is Crystal Glo, also Liquid Glass is also a good top-coat. If the outside temp is below 60f turn on the lights for a few miniuts, then turn off, wax, buff, and turn back on. I always apply 2 coats of scealer.
Enjoy
Yes clear-coat is a very viable alternative, but one must chose a clear that will resist extreme temperature changes(-30 to +200 with some lights) and chipping. I find that clearing the lights gives a great finish, drys fast when you turn the lights on, but will chip or flake on some lights.
CRKDUPINGA
Yes the lights are better "flamed" out of the car, or else you may flame more than you bargined for. As for the final coating, the wax must state "polymere" on the label, contain no abrasives, and preferably no petrolium products(negative reaction with the plastic). The product I found that works well is Crystal Glo, also Liquid Glass is also a good top-coat. If the outside temp is below 60f turn on the lights for a few miniuts, then turn off, wax, buff, and turn back on. I always apply 2 coats of scealer.
Enjoy
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