Same old bat wing questions...

[south88]

Ok, I have been at this for awhile.. I am getting mixed results and not sure which way is best yet. When I get a bat wing, I drill a hole and pop a mini. I then proceed with the resin and vacuum cycles. I am able to clear the entire chip under pressure and proceed to cure. However, no matter how long I cure for, when I remove the injector I get that danged black half moon. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jon.

[repare-brise]

Jon

There are a few possible contributing factors that can cause what you describe, in no particular order they are.

- your injector may be too tight to the glass, compressing the break.
- use a small LED flashlight to make sure the break is full before curing, with the eye alone you may not see the air pocket, but the light will make it show.
- using heat can adversly affect the break, heat can cause the break to close, and re-open when cooling
- try repairing without drilling, and mini bulls eye, if your resin can't fill a break without drilling, try a thinner resin.
- try starting with a vacumm cycle if your injector permits, and finnish with a pressure cycle, and cure under pressure
-call your system manufacturor for tech help.
-you may have too little resin in your injector, causing air at the top of the break(assuming the 1/2 moon is at the top of the bulls eye)
-make your cycles a little longer, be patient, sometimes the smaller the break, the longer the repair time.
- try flexing the legs of the break with your probe, movement helps in filling.

I am sure others will have more suggestions to help, knowing what system/resins you use will also help in directing you to success.

At Your Service

[south88]

Thanks for taking some time to answer. I have a GT 20/20 injector and have been using Delta Kits Premium Bond Resins. They seem to work better. I will try a few repairs of batwings and bullseyes without drilling. I just know it will fill if I drill, not so sure if I don't. I just hate to waste ANY resin. Thanks, jon.

[repare-brise]

Jon

In your reply you have an attitude twords resin that could use revision. Resin is expensive if you look at it at the bottle level, when you look at it at the repair level, it's cheap. 1oz contains 360 drops, so adding a drop or 2 per repair is not the end of the world. You are using a good resin, you(and a good number of techs) need to get over the cost barrier that is wrongfully associated with resin. There are not a lot of products that allow you to spend 50 cents and make $40 with it, so if your cost goes up to 55 cents, it's not what is going to put you out in the street. It's better to spend a few cents more to get a result that you and your customer will be proud of.

At Your Service

[sunshine wr]

Well said r-b, I'm not a resin miser either.

[repare-brise]

Thanks Sunshine, sometimes I fell like Rick Mercer(on of Canada's top satirical humorists and political comentators, I suggest my American friends that you get hold of the Mercer Report(http://www.cbc.ca, look for The Mercer Report, and have fun in the archicves) with my rantings. But all humor aside when you look at the cost of resin, even at $1 per repair I would consider it cheap.

At Your Service

[Bois]

Batwings are my biggest headache, also. The customers think that since they're so small that the repair should be easy. They're not. I had one today that was old (batwing not customer). I drilled a little to get rid of any dirt build-up. I had some sample RL resin (white cap) so I tried it. The break did not fill. I removed the injector, drilled a little deeper and then used DK Premium Bond resin. The break filled instantly. Was it the resin or deeper drilling? I believe it was the drilling.

Dale...