I was experimenting today on some combination breaks and I have never used heat on the pressure cycle to help with filling. I have started drilling, and using heat and the tight repairs look great. By using heat does it only cause the windshield to expand and reduce the strength of the resin. It sure looks great but how about long term? How many of you use heat?
Thanks as always,
NCGlasTech
By saying use it only when moisture is present, but I have used it during the pressure cycle of resin does it make it wrong? Or by choice do you feel that it is just a unnecessary step?
Thanks
When you apply heat to any repair everything closes up because your expanding the glass. What you think looks good for 15-20 minutes won't look so well later in the day! Like I already stated, heat is only used for removing moisture!!!! It''s that simple! Please, only use heat when needed.
Seeing that your in California, I wouldn't worry to much about thining resin by applying additional heat. It's probably not necessary. because CPS (viscosity rating) for your resins are most likely in line with your average temps.
Anytime temperture drops below 45 degress...... yes you might consider using heat to thin resins but more importantly just remember when temps start to drop moisture developes! Under 45 degrees you should be drying out everything!!!
I sometimes use heat (cigaret lighter) on the inside of the vehicle on star breaks when under pressure when the resin just won't seep to the end of a break. I'm careful and always wait for the glass to cool down before completing the cycle. Heat from the inside glass layer temporarily opens the outside crack to allow the resin to seep in. I haven't found any evidence that the heat weakens the resin.
The chip does sometimes open up depending on style of break, but this is for a very short time before the same heat source causes it to close. This may appear that the legs have filled always make sure once the legs have filled that you flex them again to check.
I have found that heat is best used on a vacuum cycle due to the fact it will make the break shut up, therefore causing the air to be forced out, apply pressure whilst the break is cooling and opening up again will help pull the resin in.
Whilst we are on this subject I have been experimenting with an alluminium block. When the glass has cooled slightly I apply the block over the damage this helps to draw off the heat and speed up the cool down process.
Obviously you need to be careful about temperature shock but that does not need explaining.
33,000 + screen repairs over 18 years and still learning.
Over
I'm with screenman on this one except that I just wipe alcohol on the inside of the glass and blow on it to cool the glass down due of course to the high evap' rate of it but I may look into this aluminum trick.