Drill Bur Strikes Laminate

[wilz]

Bula.

I did this repair the other day. It was one of those combo's more so like a star break which was already spreading by an inch and kind of forming a 'y' on the top of it with a small bullsye around the pit area.

Looked at the break, analysed it and then went in straight for the repair. After two cycles, the repair was looking o.k but i could'nt get to fill two of it's legs. So i decided to start again but this time i was going to drill into the pit area as if to open it up a bit more.

Before the bur was 1/3 into the glass, the pit area kind of caved in and i saw and felt that bur gone in to the glass by more than it should. I almost felt numb in that instant. However, i was surprised that the laminate did'nt turn black but somewhat kind of whitesh. I continued with the repair, completed it and the owner of the vehicle was very happy about it. When viewed from the outside, the repair was close to invisible, but still that nasty blemish was very much visible from the inside.

Now, analysing on what did i do wrong here? Could it have been to much force inserted onto the drill or could it be some dissater waiting to just happen. Any inputs into this one would be appreciated. Vinaka.

[Sneck]

It could be that the center was pulverized or perhaps even delaminated at the center so when the drill was used the bit just sunk in like a hot knife thru butter. Either way, it seems that the center was extremely weak. I don't think you did anything wrong. You did what I would have done.

What else is there to do but continue the repair.

Another satisfied customer and another notch to put in your learning belt.

Good Job!

[wilz]

Thanx Sneck. That was a great boost to my self confidence.

[rescue]

What's wrong with drilling to the laminate? Unless you want to pop a mini-bullseye? As far as the "whitish" color - was there any moisture in the break?

[screenman]

Rescue,
We tend not to drill to the laminate as it always leaves a blemish. Some people also subscribe to the idea that is weakens the screen. Having tried to seperate glass from PVB I tend to not agree with this. A lot of people still do not know when or when not to drill, unfortunately halfway through a repair is generally not a good time. I do not understand why people should want to drill into a repair that is half filled. The problem lies elsewhere, normaly somewhere in the preparation stages.

[wilz]

The problem lies elsewhere, normaly somewhere in the preparation stages

Screenman,

Any areas where you may suspect that i may have gone wrong in the preparation stage.

[wilz]

Screenman,

A you just gonna let me hang out to dry on this one. Some loving would be nice.

[J.T.Window]

You drilled into a 'soft spot' in the pit, that's why it drilled so easily. Imagine clamping two 2X4s together and drilling a hole down the middle of where they meet - the drill bit goes in easy. Maybe get a practice glass and try drilling in areas that are cracked and not cracked.
Also, put some breaks in a practice glass, get them wet and see how much heat from your torch it takes to crack them out. Maybe try a hair dryer too.

[screenman]

Sorry Wilz,

I find that lack of proper drying out is one of the main reason chips fail to fill.

When inspecting a dry break really study it hard, if you need to use a magnifying glass. This will show you many things. With the combination you described I would have just used my drill as a motorised scribe and just cleaned out a dish shape in the pit, making sure it was scribed right to the edge. I also flush dryout solution into the break and pull it out straight away this will show me if there are going to be any problems filling.

I know this is a subject many will disagree with, but as always on this forum I say what I do and it is up to you.

[wilz]

Thank you J.T. and very much appreciated, Screenman.