Really cold windshield - perfect repair

[Sneck]

My repair turned out absolutely perfect on a really cold windshield. It was one of those little cracks (about an inch long) with an impact point in the middle that looks something like this... ---o---

Anyway the car was in the shade all day, it was a cold 30 degree air temp. The glass was very very cold (and dry). I DID NOT warm it up.

Now I know that we have been trained to warm up the windshield slowly (which is what I normally do) but I have some questions about that...

- Glass was cold, so that means the cracks are contracted making them larger (less tight than on a warm day).

I kept the resin warm in my pocket until ready for use.
I did 2 vaccum and pressure cycles with my trusty Delta equipment.
There was no need for heat (inside or out)
There was no need for flexing.
It was quite possibly the fastest repair I have done in a while.

Was I just lucky?... or did leaving the windshield cold help this particular repair accept resin so fast and sweet?

Any thoughts on repairing cold windshields?

[screenman]

No dry out you were lucky.

[Mike Allen]

I have done the same and they are still holding just fine. I get to see the vehicles everyweek because they are at work. Yes I do check them out regularly because I want to know how they hold up.

And I get to see 3 on my truck everyday that were done in the same manner although the windshield wasn't quite as cold that day.

[Don Boccafola]

The lower the temperature the lower the moisture content of the air. I find I have verry little problem with wet breaks in the cold weather. I just have to be carefull to put the mini vac pump on the chip before I pull the vehicle into a warm shop. As soon as the cold w/s hit the warm moist air it fogs up and becomes a sponge. As far as why your repair came out so good while it was so cold it was probably just luck. For a more consistent repair I would prefer to warm the w/s to about 50 degrees while I have my vac pump on the break. Once it's warmed you are good to go.

[SGT]

Personally I like to have the glass between 70-90 deg. for repairs but I am also guilty of doing repairs in less than favorable temp conditions at times.(If you are doing multiple repairs at a dealership where the cars are not close or if your doing fleet work or any multiple repair senario). Is it right or wrong? Well, "IMHO if the repair is structurally sound when completed, no moisture, no air, then that is what matters most, cosmetics second, technically speaking. Sure I would like to have all conditions for repairs optimal but in the real world that is not always possible. Temp. is one of those things I feel you can work around if you are carefull" Make sure you have the least ammount of tip pressure needed to give you a good seal and do not over pressurize while filling.

[rescue]

The lower the temperature the lower the moisture content of the air.

Well, I'll have to disagree with this comment! Temperature has nothing to do with "moisture content" of the air (also known as relative humidity). You can have 100% humidity on a hot day (rain, mist, fog, etc.) and 100% humidity on a cold day (snow, sleet, etc.). Also, if you see frost on your car in the morning, the humidity is 100% and the temperature is at or below freezing.

Regardless of the temperature, it's important to make sure that your break is moisture-free. You can kind of "sense" the humidity in the air. It only takes a minute to dry out a break with a Dry-Star, so why leave it to chance?

[screenman]

I would have thought that if you can see moisture when you breath there is a chance there will be some in the break.

If in the very slightest doubt dry it out.