smooth glass drilling
Can anyone suggest an effective technique to drill into a windshield at a smooth glass point without "traveling"?
I noticed one post where the technician considered that as his "signature". (No doubt, a tongue-in-cheek comment.) I prefer to remain anonymous when it comes to scratching the glass.
Gracias.
I noticed one post where the technician considered that as his "signature". (No doubt, a tongue-in-cheek comment.) I prefer to remain anonymous when it comes to scratching the glass.
Gracias.
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smooth glass drilling
It takes a lot of practice. It's not something I can really explain to you, other then practice a lot and after about 20 to 25 times you will get a feel for it. Make sure to hold your drill very tight and the first few times you try to put pressure on it, make it light until you have a hole started. I don't know if that helps any.
David
Coitster
David
Coitster
Drilling
I use a carbide tip probe and "dig" a little spot for the drill bit. You have to make sure it is deep enough or the bit will still walk. If you are careful you can keep it small, not much bigger then the size of the bit. I use a .025 size bit. I thought I read somewhere that someone made a bit the didn't walk but don't know where I read it.
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desertstars,
Get a scrap windshield and practice on it. I have tried a number of drill bits, and for me, the ones that skid the least are the round burrs. You can try 'pecking' ... that is touching the bit to the glass, then raising it; repeating this until you have created a place for the bit to grab. This takes practice too, as you need to touch the same spot with each peck.
You will find that as your skills increase, you will experience fewer and fewer times when the drill skids, as you approach the glass with confidence.
Get a scrap windshield and practice on it. I have tried a number of drill bits, and for me, the ones that skid the least are the round burrs. You can try 'pecking' ... that is touching the bit to the glass, then raising it; repeating this until you have created a place for the bit to grab. This takes practice too, as you need to touch the same spot with each peck.
You will find that as your skills increase, you will experience fewer and fewer times when the drill skids, as you approach the glass with confidence.
unfilled bullseye
Thanks for your suggestions, folks.
Let me preface my remarks by stating that I started my business in 1988 and have used all of those techniques. None are failsafe. When working on a fleet Peterbilt, I'm not too concerned about a spiral scratch. When working on a $50,000 Lexus or Seville, I'm REAL concerned!
It gets hot here in Phoenix! (But, it's a dry heat, of course.)
When attempting to drill the end of a crack, the SLIGHTEST pressure on that windshield can spell disaster. Even affixing the injector equipment can be a ticklish situation. I normally apply oil to the suction cup, attach it to the w/s away from the damaged area, and then carefully slide it over. The problem of starting a drill point is particularly acute as one stretches to reach damage toward the center of the w/s in spite of using a three foot ladder. The customer doesn't appreciate it when he sees me leaning on any part of his vehicle and particularly the hood regardless of use of a hood protector.
So, for now, I am resigned to a crap shoot everytime I need to smooth- glass -drill.
Again, thanks for your suggestions.
Let me preface my remarks by stating that I started my business in 1988 and have used all of those techniques. None are failsafe. When working on a fleet Peterbilt, I'm not too concerned about a spiral scratch. When working on a $50,000 Lexus or Seville, I'm REAL concerned!
It gets hot here in Phoenix! (But, it's a dry heat, of course.)
When attempting to drill the end of a crack, the SLIGHTEST pressure on that windshield can spell disaster. Even affixing the injector equipment can be a ticklish situation. I normally apply oil to the suction cup, attach it to the w/s away from the damaged area, and then carefully slide it over. The problem of starting a drill point is particularly acute as one stretches to reach damage toward the center of the w/s in spite of using a three foot ladder. The customer doesn't appreciate it when he sees me leaning on any part of his vehicle and particularly the hood regardless of use of a hood protector.
So, for now, I am resigned to a crap shoot everytime I need to smooth- glass -drill.
Again, thanks for your suggestions.
seems like the environmental issues (i.e. the extreme heat) certainly add to the difficulties of completing any repair. I'm sure that you attempt to capitalize on this when stressing a sense of urgency to your prospective customers to repair ASAP.
A strange thought, however, might be for someone to invent some sort of suction cup mounted drill press that would allow one to position the drill and then lower it to the windsield to create the perfect pilot hole. Laser positioning, speed and depth control would all be nice features.
A strange thought, however, might be for someone to invent some sort of suction cup mounted drill press that would allow one to position the drill and then lower it to the windsield to create the perfect pilot hole. Laser positioning, speed and depth control would all be nice features.
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Buffalo NY
I have found that if you hold the drill at an angle to start then striaghten it up once you start to drill that keeps it in place. Also requires no pressure this way let the drill work for you. Just my two cents worth
Good Luck And Happy Repairing
Brian
Good Luck And Happy Repairing
Brian
me2
That seems like a good idea. I thought about that too with the suction cup and drill. But just a thought maybe no one has this or has made one because with the amount of pressure of putting say a pump type suction cup drill next to a crack might not be the best idea and especially at the end where it could run out. Just my .02
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