To Drill or not to Drill?

[AGN]

This has probably been brought up before now, however my search didn't produce any results. So I apologize if it is repetitive.

I have been repairing rock chips for a few years now. I have heard it said the you should drill them and that you should not drill them. It seems to depend on who you are talking to. I find myself in need of a new drill amd thought that I might ask to see what the experts thought of the subject.

So the question is: Do you or Do you NOT drill while doing a repair?

Thanks.

AGN

[Coitster]

I only drill 10% of the time. That is to say when the chip isn't filling. Then and only then do I drill.

[screenman]

I use the drill on 100%. This is because I use it as a scribe to clean the pit out, this does notmean I drill down into it. Different damages need different angles of attack. Experiment and you will find what works for you. Read the damage and work out which way the glass is broken each is individual. Of course we all know a bullseye does not need drilling down to the laminate. Shame nobody told the AutoXXXss guy who repaired my wifes screen before we bought the car.

[toab]

I find that alot of stars that I do require me to drill just to have a fighting chance to hopefully get all the legs to fill.

[CV Windshield Repair]

Experience will tell you when to drill and when it is not necessary to drill. If you do not drill when the break needs to be drilled you will spend too much time trying to fill the break and usually the end result will not be optimal. Half bullseyes,star breaks,and bat wings usually require drilling.

[Bruno]

Toab, i thought that you were using the super aluminum LR knockoff, with such a high vac that no drilling was required. The equipment that I trained on only requires the smallest of stars to be drilled if you are in a rush to repair, if you have 15 mins then drilling is not required, and according to Mr Kurl the tools i use are junk.

[Garvey]

i'm struggling to get rid of all the bubbles in the hole after I drill, does anyone have any tips?

Thanks

[wilz]

Bubbles?? What process do you follow before and after the completion of your drilling?

[Shepard]

I think it was Coister that suggested what I do now.... I stab the hole with a needle after putting a drop of pit filler over the top. This takes the pit filler to the bottom and gets rid of bubbles...

I need some Coister training, I drill & pop about 90% of my stuff! Wow!

[SGT]

I only drill when it is absolutly needed to guarantee a structurally sound repair. For me this is rarely since patience usually will conquer most stubborn breaks. With that said, for normal sized pit, if you drill shallow and tap rapidly with a little more force, your bullseye will be bigger in diameter and your drill hole will not be as deep. You will also have less of a problem removing the air bubbles and may not even have any. If needed you can also direct how you want to place the bullseye by angling the needle in that direction. It does not require a dramatic angle either. I do this when needed for stop drilling cracks or opening up a stubborn chip. For cracks, I drill a little closer to the end of the crack a shoot my anchor in the direction the crack is running first and if needed angle the needle back in the direction the crack is coming from to finish off the anchor. For a chip I shoot the anchor where I need it to open up. I would suggest trying this on a practice windshield first to get a feel for different drill depths and force required to shoot an anchor if you are not comfortable drilling.

This method will certainly has a much better appearance when finshed compared to a deep drill hole near or to the laminate. Depending on the repair deep drilling may be unavoidable though. As with any repair they all need to be evaluated before repair.

There are many ways to skin a cat though.

PS- I use regular old Walmart sewing needles.