Air bubble in the repair

[mafsu]

Why so abrasive? We have to ask questions and make suggestions to get you an answer to your problem.

My next suggestion would be to let your resin cure for 3 to 5 minutes before applying the pit resin. You probably are having a small amount of air trying to escape during the curing process. It's getting trapped under the pit resin because the pit resin is the first to cure.

[Chips-B-Gone]

My next suggestion would be to let your resin cure for 3 to 5 minutes before applying the pit resin.

I usually cur the repair under pressure for about 3minutes then remove the bridge and add pit resin then cure. Seems to work just fine. I also use LR Super Hard Pit Resin.

[Gedis]

well since Im new in this business, I let my resin cure longer then 5 min under the pressure before putting pit resin.

[mafsu]

Next idea, make sure you are placing the pit resin next to the pit and easing it into the pit area. Directly placing it on the pit can cause air to get trapped under it.

[GlassStarz]

try putting you tab on the resin and avoid using the pit filler if you find no bubble when you are done You know its the pit filler honestly I seldom use the pit filler unless thier is a chunk to fill 90% of breaks have a miniscule contact point and if you avoid using the drill there isnt much to fill on the outside

[StarQuest]

I'm sorry but I don't agree with not using pit filler on every repair. Yes you could just cure resin to surface and scrape off but guess what? It's not going to look very pretty in a few months and more than likely will pop out. Pit filler isn't just a resin manufactured add on for making dollars, it's a tested and proven chemical to help us provide long lasting quality repairs.

How do I know this? Simply by using my practice shields and experimenting.

As far as air bubble, I have to agree with one of Masfu's responses. Let it pre-cure first and you'll allow all those hundreds of tiny undetectable little bubbles to escape prior to sealing them with filler and cure tab.

[GlassStarz]

pit filler is thicker to fill the larger outside divot better not some magic formula to go on top the stuff you fill the chip with is thinner so it will flow into the break same basic stuff just different viscosity

[screenman]

To simplify this just try a new bottle of pit fill resin and see if that helps. We have tried the no pit filler method and do not like the long term results.

[screenman]

Pit fill has better weatering chracteristics than normal resin. Is diesel much the same as petrol both come from oil?

[splitpit]

I agree that it is not wise to use regular repair resin to fill pit. Pit resins are specifically formulated to do a much better job of staying in place and weathering. I know some techs. opt to not even use pit resins as they believe it is only a viscosity difference, which is not true. You may give the customer a good looking repair without but long term it will not look as good without.