Drystar

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

Hi Barry,

It's good to hear from you again. Welcome to the windshield repair forum.

Hi Brent.

Its nice to be here. Thank you for your welcome, I appreciate you.

Barry.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

I used a torch to dry out shields from 1981-1985 . Thats all there was at the time besides vacum pumps and drying solutions and that did not work for me.

They say necessity is the mother of invention.

I just got plain tired of dealing with this issue, so I solved it.

My point is, I used a torch and racked up many hours and experience with a torch. If there was no need for major improvement, I would have just kept using the torch. I would have prefered in a heart beat to just pay the $199.95 for a drystar rather then invest all my own time and money to invent and develop one.

[splitpit]

I bought mine on ebay for $50. I guess that waqs a good deal?

[StarQuest]

Barry,

To be honest, I do own a drystar and have used it many times but find my heat pen to be much more accomadating to my specific needs. Unlike the bulky drystar I can more effectively direct heat around the stem when using my pen. I also can control the amount of heat that I'm working with. I use both but there our times when I find one to be more effective than the other.

Another question I have....is why has this product not been keeping up with technology. I'd think by now, this product would include a thermo couple switch that could be incorporated that would elimate the use of the push button! When temps drop below 20 degress F here it's not much fun sitting outside in minus temps holding that thing! Why not put some suckers on that and and have it cycle dry out cycles automatically? Just a thought!

[splitpit]

I wondered the same thing. The tool seems kind of primitive. I still use my torch method but I did use mine to light a cigar once! SQ is right. It needs to be mountable and not have to hold in a switch. It also needs a snap on protective cover so you don't have to be cautious about laying it down after using it.

[Mr Bill]

Quote "There are some really neat tricks you can do with this that I can share shuch as getting the ocasional stubborn air pockets out of those bullseyes in just 2-3 seconds!"

Cool!
We want to know everything!
Thank you!

[maxryde]

Happy to have you on here Barry, I have 2 Drystars and many torches, when it comes to dry out the tool u designed is the current best. I like the fact that I can watch the steam rise when the chip is done. The little puff of steam is my cue that its time to go to work on a repair. Oh and I think you owe me a shield cause I did crack one out like 4 years ago due to overheating so.... Heh, I heat with a torch from the inside on stubborn breaks to flex and fill. ( Heat closes a stubborn leg when it opens it has to draw in something, hopefully resin) I appreciate all contributors to this field, so thank you Barry. Just to let you know I began in automotive in 1973 as a lot man. I then witnessed Vinyl repair, Wsr, white walls, stripers, the list goes on (still). I was struck by a guy who had palsey when he was young but insisted on making his way in the world even though he was severely disabled, he did a wonderful job on a crack on a new ford PU and I was so impressed I decided that if I ever got to the place that I had a chance I would go for it, well it took a while but I joined the WSR field in 2002 and am happy I did. Thanks to all who have contributed. (that means you Brent) Thanks again, Scott

[StarQuest]

Not sure if Barry's method is the same that I use on bullseyes with traped air pockets but this is what I do.

While repair is under vaccum, I'll heat area with drystar from inside of vehicle for 10-15 seconds then wait for area to cool and go back to pressure cycle. Not sure where 2-3 seconds comes into play because it takes at least 5 seconds just to heat element.

Someone correct me if they do something different.

[splitpit]

Takes longer than 5 seconds to heat the element on mine.

[jayjacque]

Mine takes 10 or more seconds to get up to full heat.

My question for Barry. I've been using the Drystar tool for only 3 months, so still a novice. What has happened about 3 different times now is that somewhere between 10 to 15 seconds of holding the drystar over the impact point one of the legs of the break starts to crack out. It will crack out about 3/4 of an inch, then I immediately lift up and stop drying out before it gets worse. In every case when I filled, that extra long leg filled ok, so it all worked out. But of course it scared me, and didn't seem to be normal.

I should also say that each time the temp was somewhere between 32 to 38 degrees fahrenheit, 2 out of the 3 times I warmed up first with the defroster, and in all 3 times I slowly circled the impact area for about 10 seconds starting about 3 or 4 inches out and moving toward the middle before I ended up stationary on the impact point for the 10 to 15 seconds. (If I understand right, that is what some of the Techs from this message board say they do) Am I doing something wrong, or does this just happen sometimes?