Drystar

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

I have also learned another use for the Drystar.

When I encountered a bullseye from another repair tech that was not filled in all the way.You know the ones that just have some flow of chemical into the cavity say about,10%,20% 30% ect. ? With no chemical on the outside diameter of the bullseye?

After cleaning out the pit with a dental burr,I heat up the bullseye for 20 seconds with the Drystar and after it cools all the way back, I push on it with the scribe or pop it gently with the scribe, and then fill.
Keep in mind, it is not uncommon for the repair to look a little bit less then usual. But when I am able to get the chemical to the outer diameter of the bullseye,I find it to work.
I explain to the customer before hand so they have a frame of reference and an understanding.
I still warranty it to, so everyone was happy.
Hope that made sence.

[chips1144]

Love the story screenman...

Im all for getting back onto the Drystar subject with MR BILL...

[Brent Deines]

Love the story screenman...

Im all for getting back onto the Drystar subject with MR BILL...

I'm with you. I moved some of the non-related posts to the water cooler forum where they belong.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

How I identify stars that are prone to spreading when heated.


I have found by my experience that, stars having any one or more legs that have a square end at the tip of the leg, will close when I push on the leg with a scribe on the out side of the windshield. When I see the leg close after pushing with scribe, I find them to be highly prone to spreading further when heated.

In this case, I (1). Do not repair

(2).Dry with caution, using multiple, 5 second heat cycles with
the Drystar.


Please Note: I used this precautionary measure regardless
of the heat source,especially,ie.,open flame
tourches,heat guns, hair dryers, ect.

Also note: These same breaks tend to be prone to
spreading no matter what Im doing to them,
including but not limited to, putting my
bridge on them,warm or cold glass,pushing
on them with my scribe,temp. changes,ect.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

I will add one more comment about 5 minute repairs. It only takes a few seconds to cure a think layer of resin on the surface of glass with a high quality UV light, or even in the sunlight for that matter. However, almost all glass used in windshields today is UV resistant. I don't remember how much UV it blocks right off the top of my head, but we have tested it ourselves and have verified this fact with several windshield manufacturers, and it is significant.

We don't know what kind of light technicians will be using when they cure a repair, so to be safe we recommend 5 minutes, and that is if you are not curing under pressure. If you are curing under pressure, the UV light directly over the pit area is considerably less, regardless of what type of lamp you use, so you should allow even more time.

Hi Brent,
I have questions in regards to 2 of your posts in this thread, the above post being one of them.
May I ask them on this thread?
Regards
Barry.

[SGT]

How I identify stars that are prone to spreading when heated.


I have found by my experience that, stars having any one or more legs that have a square end at the tip of the leg, will close when I push on the leg with a scribe on the out side of the windshield. When I see the leg close after pushing with scribe, I find them to be highly prone to spreading further when heated.







In this case, I (1). Do not repair

(2).Dry with caution, using multiple, 5 second heat cycles with
the Drystar.


Please Note: I used this precautionary measure regardless
of the heat source,especially,ie.,open flame
tourches,heat guns, hair dryers, ect.

Also note: These same breaks tend to be prone to
spreading no matter what Im doing to them,
including but not limited to, putting my
bridge on them,warm or cold glass,pushing
on them with my scribe,temp. changes,ect.

Barry,

I agree as it has also been my experience as well that the end of legs/cracks wether stemming from a chip or crack that are blunt have a higher tendency to travel. Certainly repairable but extra care should be given during all phases of repair especially heat/dryout and tip pressue and plunger pressure/resin pressure. It might even be advisable in certain situations on chips that have legs that are blunt to anchor them. To give a very simple illustration of this I will use a couple of keyboard characters.

l Crack Blunt, most unstable and least forgiving

/ Crack pitching up to surface, unstable but more forgiving

\ Crack pitching down to laminate, unstable but more forgiving

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

Barry,

I agree as it has also been my experience as well that the end of legs/cracks wether stemming from a chip or crack that are blunt have a higher tendency to travel. Certainly repairable but extra care should be given during all phases of repair especially heat/dryout and tip pressue and plunger pressure/resin pressure. It might even be advisable in certain situations on chips that have legs that are blunt to anchor them. To give a very simple illustration of this I will use a couple of keyboard characters.

l Crack Blunt, most unstable and least forgiving

/ Crack pitching up to surface, unstable but more forgiving

\ Crack pitching down to laminate, unstable but more forgiving

Rabboni:

Could you explain to me what it means to "anchor" a leg ? and how to do it ?

Do you mean drilling the end of the leg? I drilled some of them to relieve the stress risers but I did not have to much success.

I sure wish I would have known this in my day, sounds interesting.



Thank you in advance.

Best Regards
Barry

[SGT]

Rabboni:

Could you explain to me what it means to "anchor" a leg ? and how to do it ?

Do you mean drilling the end of the leg? I drilled some of them to relieve the stress risers but I did not have to much success.

I sure wish I would have known this in my day, sounds interesting.



Thank you in advance.

Best Regards
Barry

Barry,

Certainly nothing new to what I was referring to. I guess the terminology "Anchor" I used in the sense of relieveing stress was misleading. I merely ment drill and pop. Sorry for the confusion. Not sure why you did not have success doing this though. I realize the crack ends that are blunt are very sensitive but you should be able to drill and pop. Personally I Drill slightly past the end of the crack and use very light pressure when drilling. I like to use various guage sewing needles and my tap stick(suction cup remover). Thats just what works for me.

Thank you for the compliment. Certainly one I will only ever be able strive for, but never achieve. There is only one and can only ever be one deserving of this.

[screenman]

I would say the the first 2 examples are possibly cracked to the surface, this is also why they would close when pressure is aplied from the top. If this is the case they will ofetn open when using slight presurre from inside. care must be taken when drying these as mentioned. However we have great success filling these by placing resin along the lenght of the leg and placing curing film over, then go inside the car and apply very slight pressure to the leg this will often open up and fill very quickly. Release the inside pressure and its done. I would give this sort of repair a short cure under pressure with the lamp focuse on the curing film before proceeding onto normal cure. I would very seldom drill the end of a short leg.

[Brent Deines]

Hi Brent,
I have questions in regards to 2 of your posts in this thread, the above post being one of them.
May I ask them on this thread?
Regards
Barry.

Of course.