Why does my pit resin end up standing out?

GPrepairs · Post by **GPrepairs** » July 19th, 2008, 3:14 pm

I will usually with a little pit resin and a curing tab, especially on those that I might have to drill and the end result is always a slight white color to it and it does not really blend much with the windshield. Is this normal? Is there a reason for it? Do different resins make a difference? I finished a job today and there was a previous repair from another tech and his blended real well.

GPrepairs · Post by **GPrepairs** » July 19th, 2008, 3:16 pm

I will usually finish a job with a little pit resin and a curing tab, especially on those that I might have to drill and the end result is always a slight white color to it and it does not really blend much with the windshield. Is this normal? Is there a reason for it? Do different resins make a difference? I finished a job today and there was a previous repair from another tech and his blended real well. Any thoughts?

GlassStarz · Post by **GlassStarz** » July 19th, 2008, 4:25 pm

Have you tried polishing afterwards? and are you back scraping with the blade at a 45 deg to the glass?

Mr Bill · Post by **Mr Bill** » July 19th, 2008, 5:10 pm

What resins are you using?
Do you remove moisture first?

screenman · Post by **screenman** » July 19th, 2008, 11:57 pm

Back scraping and polishing spring to mind. I am sorry to say this to you again but I hope these repairs you keep doing are not on customers cars, you really do need training and with some you would get most of your questions answered. In the past we have answered your question with another this is to get a better idea of the situation and you do not answer us.

You say you usually pit fill and cure tab on those that you have drilled, what on earth do you do with the others? Poor quality repairs like it sounds you may be doing will do nothing for our reputation as an industry or for that matter you personaly. Please please tell me you have a practise screen.

If you get the job right the satisfaction and income will come in, but for each person that succeeds there are many that fail. We hav efounf through years of experience that those that take the time to get trained have a far better chance of success.

ghost rider · Post by **ghost rider** » July 20th, 2008, 4:05 pm

The pit resin I use will look white or foggy if I don't let it cure long enough and try to scrape it too soon. Do you have a good curing lamp?

GPrepairs · Post by **GPrepairs** » July 21st, 2008, 2:46 pm

Let me qualify my statement. Usually is a wrong choice of words. I do use pit resin and a curing tab on every repair. Yes I do the backscraping but I will try polishing. As for the resin that I use it came with the kit that I bought it is relatively thin. I have requested some sample resin and have taken note of many other techs preference for Magnibond and I plan on going in that direction. As for removing moistrure I do not do it for every repair although I have recently read a few suggestions that it should be done reagardless so that will be something I will begin to do as a norm. As for not answering back it was not intentional. I am doing everything I can to get continual training although I have not been to an actual seminar of any sort. I have a practice screen and I have been practicing on friends windshields who actually need a replacement so they are letting me practice on thier chips and cracks. The majority of my repairs have been without a problem and I do not attempt to repair what I have not practiced. I ask, I read, I practice. I totally understand your concern about techs doing bad repairs and giving a bad name. I have not dove full fledge yet due to the fact that I am trying to get as much experience as possible and do the very best repair that I can every single time. I take personal if it is bad and do not consider it acceptable to do a medeocre repair. I understand the conclusion that you have jumped to screenman and I do value your input as a qualified vetran tech. I will continue to post my questions so that those out there can help and correct me.

GlassStarz · Post by **GlassStarz** » July 21st, 2008, 4:28 pm

Hey thats what this place is for ask questions and learn from others dont be afraid to ask questions.
Many pit areas look cloudy until polished if you are using a fresh blade the scrape will be cleaner and need less polishing I put a small dab of polish on the corner of a scott blue shop paper towel and rub until things are smooth and clear some folks like to use a buff wheel on thier dremil with the compound this works well too.

screenman · Post by **screenman** » July 21st, 2008, 11:19 pm

Thanks for your reply that helps matters. As for polishing I posted something on this sometime ago which astounded some members. Use the smallest amount possible amout the size of a pinhead is almost too much, put it on the end of your finger and rub hard on the pit until the polish dries, this is the important part. By using more pit polish will only take it longer until it dries. We have tried and tested many methods but find this one which was taught to me 20 years ago by far and away the best method, sparkling pit no problem every time.

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