Scratch removal

[Brent Deines]

I agree the AutoStock system is not very practical for mobile use, but I've seen amazing results when used properly. If I was doing a lot of commercial work that is probably the way I would go. I've tried quite a few systems and get just as good of results with the buffing wheel and polish so I have never found a reason to pay more, but not everyone gets the hang of the buffing wheel and polish so I've referred a number of customers to both Novus and IPS over the years depending on what they are looking for and willing to pay. I should be getting a commission! I don't use this forum to try to convince others to buy our products, but would like the opportunity to help a customer learn how to get the most out of a product he already purchased from Delta Kits.

[sunshine wr]

So happy for Frankeu

[candyman]

Thanks for the information: I worked the wheel back and forth along the scratch line. As I said in places the glass was very smooth yet a very faint line could still be seen from inside the vehicle but not outside. I used a dry eraser marker on the inside of the vehicle to keep me on target. I thought maybe my mix was too wet, so I thicken it up. That worked better. Some places along the line actually disappeared. At the rate I was going I would be there all day to do that ws. The ladies husband is an auto parts salesman and he only wanted to pay $50 for the entire ws. I wanted to try it just to improve my knowledge and skill in doing scratches.
I did discover it makes a mess. I trimmed the edges of the wheel to see if that improved the removal and it made handling the drill better. I do know the portable drill doesn't have enough power. I was afraid to use anything bigger than my medium electric drill for fear of damaging the WS. I will do more practicing on my WS in my office before I do any more scratches. I spent more than two hours removing a few light scratches for a customer a few months back and I thought that was a long time. I learned I needed to soak the wheel in hot water first. I thought that maybe that had been the problem as to why it took me so long and not having the wheel trimmed. I dont think I'll keep scratch removal due to the time factor and the fact that the customers shy away from a price above $40. Thanks Frank & Brent for the information. I got an Email from Korey also. Candyman

[Brent Deines]

Candyman,

If you get a lot of calls for scratch removal don't give up. It sounds like you are using the tool correctly with a couple of exceptions; you should use a very heavy duty drill or polisher and from what you have described you should use more pressure. My preference is a high end Makita polisher, but I used 1/2 Bosche and Milwaukie drills for years with good results. The mess can be minimized by taping off the area you are working on, but I will admit that the buffing wheel is messier than some of the other methods used to remove scratches. If you get a chance, visit one of the trade shows where several scratch removal vendors demonstrate their products, or find the ones that will offer a money back guarantee and try some different tools and techniques for yourself. If you find one you like I would suggest that you take advantage of any training that is offered to make sure you are doing everything correctly. There are several different tools and techniques to choose from, but as with anything, it's the final result that counts, and we won't all agree on which one is best.

I'm sorry that our instructions for the buffing wheel are not better. It's hard to describe on paper how best to round the wheel before you start and how important that is, not only for control, but also for the best results. Normally we ask customers to call us when they receive the buffing wheel and compound so we can walk them through the proper procedure, and rarely do we have a complaint. If we neglected to do that in your case I apologize for that as well. We are always just a phone call away if you are experiencing difficulty with any tool we sell, and in this case I truly believe I could have helped you get better results from the start, but I have yet to hear from you.

Not seeing the scratches you were working on myself I cannot say for sure if they could be completely removed without distortion. Most light scratches can be removed with the buffing wheel and compound we use, but depending on the depth and width of the scratch it is possible that you will still see a faint line when finished. You should have been told that prior to your purchase, so if you feel we misrepresented the performance of the tool you purchased from Delta Kits in any way, please give me a call. I'll make it right with you.

[candyman]

?? Will a polisher work with the scratch powder mix or a wax/compound to get those faint lines out after I use the wheel and have a smooth surface? The detailing shop I do a lot of HLR work for has several typest of polishers and buffers. I just didn't want to apply too much power & speed to prevent distorting the WS. The temp was about 45-48 Dgs that day. I didn't know if it would generate too much heat and crack it. I think Iam going to do plate glass repair after I talked to Korey yesterday. I 've had a few request for it. Candyman

[Brent Deines]

You can try it traditional buffing pads, but in my experience the density of the wheel is needed for scratch removal with this system. I've tried using various polishing pads and found them to be ineffective for all but the lightest of scratches even when using the compound, although pads do work well for cleaning all the contamination from the glass. I spray the glass with water regularly to keep it cool as I am working on it. My buffer and 1/2" drill are both variable speed so I also adjust the speed down and apply a little more pressure to help control heat. The polishing wheel will screw onto most quality buffers if you remove the drill shaft adapter.

The polishing compound we sell is the same that is used to remove scratches and polish beveled edges in many glass and mirror manufacturing facilities. Of course production lines use state of the art machinery that keeps the glass cool as it is being polished and everything is automated so that is an entirely different ball game.

I would suggest that you give me a call before you do your first plate glass repair as well if you will be using the technique we recommend. It's a very simple process but there are some tips that are easier to explain over the telephone.

[Phoenix 1]

Hi all
I do quite alot of winscreen scratch repairs and have a set procedure I use
On arrival I cover the hole car with the body shop style masking sheet,
Cut out the shape of the screen to be repaired and mask down with masking tape, Now the car will be spotless on completion
and it oly takes about 5 mins to do.
I use a system that is a water feed buffer so the water is a constant feed to the screen, the discs are dimond cut and graded
about 5 different grades from course to polishing
I pick out the grade I feel is correct and away we go, work down the grades till you finish with the polishing disc.
Buff up the area with the cream polish and done

It takes about 1 Hour to do start to finish and I charge the car dealer £75 per screen which they are more than glad to pay
due to the high line car screens being from £300 plus.

I have found in the UK there are very few do this type of repair so my name is spreading around quickly
Once you have a set routine things get quicker and not quite so scary

Mike

[GLASSTIME]

Candyman,

I just noticed you asked a question in regards to using a "Detailers" style polisher or buffer!

Well due to my many years in the "Detailing" Industry....Yes you can. We use Porter Cable Random Orbital Polishers. 1. It orbitates therefore less likely to burn paint, 2. Its compact, easy to use..Even a caveman can do it. Sorry had to throw that one in there!

I have used the Porter Cable with a 5" Light Whool Pad and the Water Spot Removal Cream which Delta sells to remove Water Spots from a customers Glass on a RV.

Now keep in mind a RV windshield is much thicker, sort of like plate glass its harder and laminate is softer!
I had optimal results. Maybe you could try that!

[screenman]

Time2Shine, are you saying that RV vehicle do not have laminated windshields. I think you might find the majority are still laminated and have the same characteristics of a car windshield only very slightly thicker.

[lemataj]

Lemataj
I have been using the scatch removal system from Glass-Wel which works very good, it is a wheel and polish system, I must add that it works better with the proper technique.
An improvement on the polish by the company (manufacture) would increase potential.