Star break help

[TGD]

Okay I have searched and read countless threads regarding this problem, but can not come up with a reason.
I come across a star break on occasion, that all of the legs fill with no problem for the exception of one or two. I try everything mentioned on the forum and what I was trained to do, but cannot get the darn leg to fill completely. When I am done with the repair, it looks 50% better, but you can still see white thinner legs.
I do notice when I flex the legs, they open up but no resin flow into them, they look to be attached from the break, at times I would drill to make sure it is attached, but still I come up with a thin shiny leg or two.

I have probed the legs in and out.
Applied pressure to the piston head.
Applied Heat
Drilled on some occasion/not all.
This happens also on a practice break (so moisture is not the cause)
Any suggestions ?

[screenman]

I would imagine that the leg is not connected, another very common cause for starbreaks not filling correctly in premature curing. For the first use a good magnifying glass to check, for the second a good UV shield. There is a third, maybe one of the legs is open to the surface and when you remove the bridge it allows air in.

[TGD]

Some of the repairs were indors (homemade star break) no sunshade needed-premature curing.
legs were still shiny, not filling prior to bridge removal.
the only other thing I can think of, is that the bridge/injector was turned too tight(pressure) on windshield? being that it would happen on like 2 out of 5 breaks only.

[Kgobin]

May I ask what kind of system are you using.

[TGD]

It's a GM power vac, but I just ordered my delta b300 kit , waiting for it to arrive, to see the difference in repairs.

[GlassStarz]

I would think its prob a leg where the crack goes to the surface and the air is getting pulled back in. I like to put a cure tab over the legs on a Star sometines a small drop of resin under wil get pulled in in the vac cycle.When all elsefails cure it under pressure if your system allows it

[noname]

Try using only gravity and vibration. Put resin in barrel, 12 drops, but don't use the piston at least not right away. Tap on inside of windshield with small hammer or like tool. Allow 5 or so minutes somewhere during the process to just allow gravity work for you and fill the legs.

[TGD]

I've heard of flexing with a probe, but a small hammer? Is this a new technique or something? I'm trying to fill a leg, not buy the owner another windshield.

[WW973]

Okay I have searched and read countless threads regarding this problem, but can not come up with a reason.
I come across a star break on occasion, that all of the legs fill with no problem for the exception of one or two. I try everything mentioned on the forum and what I was trained to do, but cannot get the darn leg to fill completely. When I am done with the repair, it looks 50% better, but you can still see white thinner legs.
I do notice when I flex the legs, they open up but no resin flow into them, they look to be attached from the break, at times I would drill to make sure it is attached, but still I come up with a thin shiny leg or two.

I have probed the legs in and out.
Applied pressure to the piston head.
Applied Heat
Drilled on some occasion/not all.
This happens also on a practice break (so moisture is not the cause)
Any suggestions ?

OK well i might give u info u already used but my method is first use a moisture evaporator then when u add resin before u put the piston down the barrel put a probe down the barrel to the impact point apply steady pressure u should start to see the resin flow after a few min put the plunger in and pressure and vac cycles if it wont fill all the way i use a probe by the seal with steady pressure on the crack but u need to be right by the seal or u will make it crack out and i hold pressure till it fills compleatly if not i apply pit fill over crack put piston into vac cycle apply a milar strip and with a match i heat from inside at the most 2 matches after a few seconds i put plunger back into pressure but not to much as the glass cools the crack will contract drawing in resin from the injector if you need more pm me

[screenman]

Jason, have you ever timed how long it takes a leg to cool down and reopen to allow the resin to flow in, without the heat sink it is a loooong time. Try this little trick any of you that has a practise screen, put a starbreak in it, heat up until the legs disappear and time how long it is before they reopen, we have gone way over 20 minutes before. It is a test I show in training to guys who have been shown elsewhere to use heat. Certainly it has its place in our arsenal of skills, however it must be allowed to cool right back down and down and a bit more.

We have a company over here that has shown in training to heat up whilst the pressure is on, not a lot of thought went in to that one, that is for sure.