Which stores sell Mylar around town?

[chipfix]

Being loyal to suppliers is one thing but I don't think I ever felt so ripped off as when I payed $7.95 for a roll of curing tape only to receive a small section cut
off a roll of flimsy saran wrap.
From then on mylar is something I take care of myself.

[screenman]

How much would you have been happy paying? ( legitimate question) There is also cost involved with selling something it is not all profit, before you say it I know there is cost involved in selling the Mylar much the same amount I would imagine or even less.

[just chippen away]

1. 24 3" film tabs: $5.00
2. 20 "strips" : $6.00
3. 100 1.375"x1.375" curing tabs: $10.00
4. 25 1"x8" cure tabs: $10.45
5. 20 1"x3" cure tabs: $9.00

Ok. Let's set a benchmark price. I suggested 25 report covers (maybe mylar, maybe not, but excellent UV penetration) for under ten dollars, but for the sake of a benchmark price, let's say $10.00. That pencils out to forty cents per sheet. A sheet measures roughly 8.75"x11.25". Now let's take the 100 tabs for $10.00 or ten cents per. You can get about 48 of those tabs from one report cover sheet or about .8333 cents per tab. The other four exaamples cost significantly more per tab. Practice your arithmetic by working out the values for the other four. That's your homework assignment .
Now although your life expectancy is vastly greater than mine, you may just go through every one of those 25 sheets by the time you retire from WSR, assuming that you perform more than 2 or three repairs a year. Here are a few suggestions for the leftovers:

Teacher Teacher, is this right?
1 = .21
2 = .30
3 = .008 48 tabs per sheet, 25 sheets per pack, 1200 tabs devided by $10. = .008
4 = .42
5 = .45

Can I take the dunce cap off and sit at my desk again?

[puka pau]

The cut-down report covers that I use are a relatively heavy weight. I've been using these for at least twenty years for literally tens of thousands of repairs and have never (and I mean never) have had one tab that curled at the edges. In addition, I can cut various sizes and lengths that make the tabs more useful than a "one-size-fits-all" product, just as I use four different injector gaskets with four different aperture diameters from three suppliers to address various types of pits. I can cut large tabs to address large pits or spalled areas. I can cut long strips to use on long cracks - although I've found that the best product to use for curing long cracks is a roll of common adhesive tape: the "invisible" type - translucent (not transparent) with the light-duty adhesive. The residual adhesive is easy to remove from the glass after the crack is cured and the tape can be custom cut to length to match the length of the crack. This tape has excellent UV penetration qualities and the off-brands that you can get at a dollar store work just as well as the name brands. I've tried using this tape on normal sized pits and it works well enough. However, because it's a thin tape, it doesn't work as well on pits as it does on long cracks. I prefer the mylar tabs for cracks.

Cheers;

Puka Pau

[puka pau]

I meant I prefer the mylar tabs for pits, not cracks. I prefer the "magic" tape for cracks. Sorry. My bad.

Cheers;

Puka Pau

[Our Glass]

Thank you for all the advise.. I ended up grabbing some glass technology curing tabs from a buddy..