cant fill long crack!

[Frank EU]

And t4k is absolutely right.

Forums like this are great places to find and share information.
However, if you want a quick and complete answer to your technical questions you deal best directly with the DK office people for instant help.
This will also (very important) prevent any misunderstandings when it comes to DK related technical issues.

[specialeffects]

i bought my system from deltakits, dont have a moisture evap., didnt see them use it in the demo video clips on the site.. and i got a complete kit for $1200, thinking i wouldnt need anything else to perform a descent repair job, could i use a heat gun? I live in belize, central america and it takes about a month to get things shipped down here, is there any other method of removing moisture and opening cracks, dont have a crack opener either.. thanx

[Frank EU]

To remove all moisture from the break, prior to place your injector/doing the repair is most important. It should be(come) your first step.
Indeed there are more ways to remove the moisture from the break, but many here on the forum and in our trade will agree with me if I tell you that the 12Volt Moisture Dryer is the way to go. Many vendors sell this important tool. Including our forum host and sponsor.

It is a bit like driving your car. You live and work in a country where normally anybody drives on the right hand side. You may try it the other way, and drive on the left hand side, but that just wouldn't be right on work out nicely.
Please order your moisture evaporator and UV shield shortly, you really need it and won't regret the order. Every single day when you go out there doing repairs.
Have fun, be good.

Last but not least a word to any vendor!
It is not my business to manage yours, but in my opinion a pretty chaep, yet very important, item like the UV-shield should be included in any kit, as a standard, even in your rock-bottom-priced kit. As a vendor you're not just moving a box over the counter, at the lowest price, at the same time, offer and sell quality. All this in order to enable your customers to perform real good work. For your customers, to be performing the best possible work is not easy, if not impossible, without a UV-shield. The price of that shield is just under THIRTY bucks

[Brent Deines]

To remove all moisture from the break, prior to place your injector/doing the repair is most important. It should be(come) your first step.
Indeed there are more ways to remove the moisture from the break, but many here on the forum and in our trade will agree with me if I tell you that the 12Volt Moisture Dryer is the way to go. Many vendors sell this important tool. Including our forum host and sponsor.

It is a bit like driving your car. You live and work in a country where normally anybody drives on the right hand side. You may try it the other way, and drive on the left hand side, but that just wouldn't be right on work out nicely.
Please order your moisture evaporator and UV shield shortly, you really need it and won't regret the order. Every single day when you go out there doing repairs.
Have fun, be good.

Last but not least a word to any vendor!
It is not my business to manage yours, but in my opinion a pretty chaep, yet very important, item like the UV-shield should be included in any kit, as a standard, even in your rock-bottom-priced kit. As a vendor you're not just moving a box over the counter, at the lowest price, at the same time, offer and sell quality. All this in order to enable your customers to perform real good work. For your customers, to be performing the best possible work is not easy, if not impossible, without a UV-shield. The price of that shield is just under THIRTY bucks

We always recommend those the moisture evaporator and UV shield or a system that includes those items, but if we try to force people to buy what they do not want they will simply buy from someone else. Such is the law of supply and demand.

[puka pau]

Specialeffects;

The questions I asked in my pevious post were not rhetorical. If you really want further insight to the reason(s) that the crack didn't fill, I need specific and detailed answers to my questions. I've repaired literally thosuands of cracks. I've used several techniques. The qualities of the crack in question may make a specific technique more appropriate than another. You may have been taught only one technique. The 'one-size-fits-all' approach is not necessarily the most appropriate for either crack or chip repair.

Cheers;

Puka Pau

[puka pau]

Specialeffects:

Two additional questions: Was the crack curved or straight and if curved, did it stop filling near or at the curve? At any point in the four inches that filled did you notice resin "sweating" from the top of the crack?

Cheers;

Puka Pau

[Nomad]

I agree with puka pau on each crack and chip being different. You need to have more "tricks" to make things go better. Searching the forum will help you find some answers.

If the crack is tight, as it will be most of the time going around a curve and sometimes for no reason that you can see at all. Some are just tight on the surface. It really is nice to have someone help you if this happens, and have them sit in the vehicle and push on the glass under the place you are trying to fill until it flexes open. You will know this as it will take resin at that point. Another method is to use a suction cup maybe about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 71/2 cm) in diameter and attach it next to the crack and pull out (up) on it as you are filling the crack with resin. It helps to lube the glass with hand lotion so the cup can be slid along the glass as you progress. Make sure you keep and eye on the end of the crack to make sure it isn't running when you flex. The suction cup method works nicely if you are alone, and if you are working on thick windshields, buses or motor homes you can have someone pushing as you are pulling. It sometimes takes a lot of force to flex these thick windshields.

If you can't get it in this way, you may have to drill a series of holes along the crack, pop a bulls eye, and use your injector to force resin into it that way. Holes are usually about 2 inches or 5 cm apart, but this can vary depending on how far you can push the resin down the crack. I don't like to do this but once or twice a year I run into one that won't fill any other way.

To dry out a chip without a drystar, use a mini torch on the outside of the glass. Keep it moving in a circle about 1 inch or so. Stop and check temp with the back of your finger or knuckle until you can't hold it there for longer than a half second or so. (Better to burn the back side of your finger than the tip, if you should get burned doing this.) If you have a vacuum device you can then put it on the chip and evacuate the air, which will help boil the water out of the chip at a lower temp. A large syringe with the end stuck in the center of a plastic suction cup will work for this if you can get a good seal. There are probably other ways of doing this, but it is one that I have used before I had a dry star.

Practice all this on a practice glass so you will get the hang of it before you use it on a customers car. If I am correct it is rainy and wet at least part of the year where you are so learning to dry out would be essential for good repairs.

Good luck with your new business!!!

[specialeffects]

it takes about a month to get something shipped here, meanwhile i wait for my moisture evap and UV shield, could i use a heat gun to remove moisture? will working in the shade block UV rays?

[t4k]

it takes about a month to get something shipped here, meanwhile i wait for my moisture evap and UV shield, could i use a heat gun to remove moisture? will working in the shade block UV rays?

Be very careful with heat guns, their output can be extreme.

If you can see without the use of lighting, there is UV present. Cover your equipment with a large dark towel until your UV shade arrives.